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Garden Notes 
Pot-grown Vines for Summer Planting 
T IS well to remember that many vines, such as wistaria, climbing 
roses, honeysuckles, akebia, trumpet vine, ampelopsis, ivy and euo- 
nymus, can be bought in pots ready to plant at almost any time 
during the summer, so that if one’s house or pergola, or whatever is 
not finished in time to use dormant plants in the spring, one need not 
wait a year, but by the use of potted vines can get an immediate 
result, even though it be meager at first. 
Tub 
The orthodox thing to put in a large pot or tub is a bay tree, but 
there are many others which will look well in the formal situations 
where tubs are commonly used. Box trees pruned to the pyramidal 
or standard form are almost as common as bay trees, but they are not 
so beautiful. 
Red cedars, if they have been carefully transplanted, can be used 
in large pots, and any of the arbor-vitates, yews and retinosporas are 
good, though not so interesting, I think, as the broad-leaved ever- 
greens, like the rhododendron, andromeda, kalmia, etc. plants whose 
blooming season is short, but whose foliage always looks well. 
The magnolias, either stellata or soulangeana, make rather pic- 
turesquely formal trees for large pots, and these can be put on the 
terraces much earlier than the bay trees. 
Japanese maples are attractive, chiefly because of their color and 
delicate graceful foliage. 
All little trees which can be trained to a fairly uniform shape, 
If the vines grow little in the remaining months of the summer, 
the gain is, nevertheless, great because they will be well established 
and ready to grow vigorously the following season, and should sur- 
pass any vines that are planted later, though both seem of the same 
size to begin with. 
Pot-grown vines cost from twenty-five cents to a dollar each. 
Plants 
but which still show their characteristic branching, are more charming 
than plants like the box and privet which present a mass of uniform 
texture and show none of the skeleton within. 
An unusually beautiful thing from this point of view is the wild 
orange (Citrus trifoliata) which has vigorous tangled branches and 
thorns of freshest green. 
Bamboos do well in tubs and are easy to manage. A bamboo 
casting its shadow on a stucco house reminds one of Japanese prints! 
Any plant of distinguished appearance and neat habit can be used 
in tubs, and will, perhaps, gain an added charm because of its unusual 
situation, especially if it be an unappreciated native. 
It would be a great relief to see other things than bay trees, box 
bushes and hydrangeas decorating our piazzas in summer. 
Many of these things, too, can be bought already potted for mid- 
summer planting. One nurseryman offers Japanese maples, mag- 
nolias and hydrangeas in pots. 
Rhododendrons 
Rhododendrons are probably the most useful and the most abused 
of all our plants, besides being the most profitable for the nursery- 
man to sell. In consequence of this latter fact, we see them every- 
where and in the most impossible situations. 
The rhododendron grows naturally in woods in a deep soil reten- 
tive of moisture and with a thick mulch of leaves. 
Their requirements in other ways are not exacting, but they should 
have a deep soil full of decayed vegetable matter, a thick mulch 
and no lime, which seems to choke the hair-like roots. 
They should be planted in masses giving each other protection, and 
not as single specimens in the lawn. It is the latter practise which 
leads so often to failure, especially when young plants just come 
from Holland are expected to stand our dry summers in a sunbaked 
lawn. 
If you can not plant them in large masses close together, at least 
give them the protection of some other shrub, or even of a boulder 
or a wall, and if you would have them grow and prosper give them 
plenty of water and a heavy mulch of forest leaves. 
The Care of Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs 
Trees and shrubs which were planted this spring should be 
thoroughly watered in dry times, and the earth about them should 
be kept cultivated and free from weeds for the first summer. ‘Their 
roots have had little time to grow and have not gone down to the sup- 
plies of water below and they are very likely to suffer, if they do 
not die, in mid-summer. In watering, remember that irrigation is 
what is needed, not spraying, which means putting on a minimum of 
water in the showiest way. 
Trees should be looked at frequently through the summer, espe- 
cially after high winds, to be sure that they have not been loosened or 
even blown over. 
Spraying 
Some sort of a pump for spraying plants should always be kept 
ready for use in the garden. “The knapsack sprayer is good, or a 
pump to be attached to an ordinary wooden pail may be used. 
Bordeaux mixture; arsenate of lead, or arsenate of copper; and 
kerosene emulsion or whale-oil soap should be on hand with the 
proper utensils for mixing. 
It is important to have these things ready and convenient to use, 
because spraying must be done at the beginning of a disease or an 
attack of insects, or the injury will be irreparable. 
Hollyhocks should be sprayed every two weeks with Bordeaux to 
prevent rust, and all leaves show signs of the disease should be cut 
and burned. 
Vines on 
Vines on the piazza should be trained to a single wire running 
plumb from the eaves to the ground. This will keep them away from 
Melons should be sprayed with Bordeaux every ten or fourteen 
days, beginning early in July, to prevent leaf mold. 
Tomatoes, spray with Bordeaux every two or three weeks for leaf 
spot. With lead arsenate in Bordeaux if there are also worms and 
flea beetles. 
Squash, spray with Bordeaux, at the same time with the melons. 
Vines which show wilted leaves are diseased and should be de- 
stroyed at once. 
Roses, spray with whale-oil soap or kerosene emulsion for aphis. 
For leaf hopper, as above, or spray with plain water. 
the Piazza 
the railing, and a single wire makes them much easier to trim in the 
spring than they would be if grown on chicken wire. 
