384 
shown, will answer the purpose. After having placed the 
reinforcing, continue to deposit the concrete, and tamp it 
down until it is level with the top of the sides D and E of 
the mold. Scrape or float this surface level, and then take 
the cross-strips L and M, shown in Fig. 3, and secure them 
to the top of the mold and against the end pieces H J and 
J K, as shown by the dotted lines in the side elevation in 
Fig. 4. [hese crosspieces not only act as a form for the 
edges a and b of the pedestal, as shown in Fig. 2, but they 
also act as a brace to the sides of the form, and prevent them 
from spreading apart, due to the weight of the plastic con- 
crete pushing against them. 
After having secured these pieces in place, fill the portion 
of the mold thus formed flush with the top of the strips and 
the end-pieces G and F. ‘amp the concrete down, and 
smooth the surface 
off nicely. The fill- 
ing of the mold is 
je 
| 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
SS 
October, 1909 
slab, so as to know which surface the reinforcing is nearest 
to, after the slab is cast, as it is important when placing the 
slab on the pedestals to always have the reinforcing nearest 
the underside of the seat. Shellack and oil the inside of 
the mold, and proceed to fill it with a mixture composed of 
the same material as was used for the pedestals. First fill 
the mold to a depth of % inch, and then lay in the reinforc- 
ing as indicated in Fig. 5, and on top of this place the re- 
maining 2% inches of concrete and tamp it down well. 
This top surface will be the top of the finished bench-seat, 
therefore it will pay to take pains in finishing it to as 
smooth a surface as one can. Cure or harden the slab in the 
same manner as described for curing the pedestals. It is 
well, however, not to attempt to remove the under part of 
the mold for at least from seven to ten days. ‘The sides of 
the form can be re- 
moved any time 
after forty-eight 
now complete, and 
it should not be dis- 
turbed for at least 
twenty-four hours, 
after which the 
cement should be 
wet down occasion- 
ally with a spray for 
at leasta day. After 
having set or hard- 
ened for two days, 
the cast can be re- 
moved from the 
mold, and can be set 
aside to be cured or 
to harden up. This 
Two of JAzs To 
is done by sprinkling his 7 Sides [and 
/ tuch Thick 
Two of this one perce 
/2" Long and one pezce 
/F “Long. 
hours. 
A good smooth 
surface can be given 
to the bench by wet- 
ting it down well 
and rubbing it with 
a fairly fine grade of 
carborundum brick. 
By tooling the re- 
cessed panel in the 
outer sides of the pedestals by means 
] of gently striking the surface with a 
-!| ! chisel and hammer, a good stony 
S effect will be produced, which will 
| greatly add to the appearance of 
ih the ends. 
If on taking off the mold the cast 
k— 6%" —4 
—— 
0 
Z Thick 
7o fore 
Panel 
[—— s°—4 
ye 
Gl /i2 ee 
Bein zx Peice A. “F‘and G" : ne 
it with water two or should in any way be injured, the 
three times a day damaged parts can readily be re- 
for at least seven to placed or filled in 
tens adays-, 1 Carrie in ae natl hole marks by applying and 
should be taken (eae ees L forming into shape 
when removing the PE a Se ye Me ampere alee a cement mortar com- 
mold not to injure it 
or the cast, as the 
mold, if not broken, 
can be used over 
and over again. In 
removing the mold 
from the cast, first 
detach the  cross- 
Strips 7 and! iM; 
then the pieces H, /, J and K, then the end-pieces F and G, 
next the side-pieces & and D, and then the bottom-piece, 
composed of pieces 4, B and C.. Before using the mold 
again, it should be thoroughly cleaned of any particles of 
cement which may have adhered to it. After having cleaned 
it well, oil the inside and proceed to assemble it as before, 
and cast the other pedestal for the bench in a similar manner 
as explained above. 
The next step is to cast the slab or seat of the bench. 
This is 5 feet long by 18 inches wide by 3 inches thick. ‘The 
form or mold for this is nothing more or less than an 
oblong box, having a bottom 5 feet long by 18 inches wide 
and four sides each 3 inches high, as shown in Fig. 7. The 
bench-seat should be reinforced with the same size of wire- 
cloth as was used in the pedestals, or by three 14-inch 
round rods spaced 6 inches apart. The reinforcing steel 
should extend within 3, inches of all four sides, and should 
be placed about % inch from the under surface of the slab, 
as shown in Fig. 7. 
It would be well to clearly mark the under-surface of the 
Fig. 3—Details of molds for bench pedestals 
i wo pose ot ae 
om —= re ment to I or 2 parts 
: Re ee ee of sand. Before ap- 
® Oe A ea plying this mortar, 
eh be sure to wet down 
the surface of the 
cast thoroughly, for 
if not, trouble will 
be had in securing a 
good and permanent bond. In setting the bench up, place 
the pedestals about 7 inches in from the ends of the slab, as 
shown in the illustration. 
It is unnecessary to secure the slab to the pedestals in 
any way, as its weight will keep it in place. If one should 
wish the top edges of the slab beveled off, a triangular strip 
of wood can be secured along the bottom edges of the mold, 
as shown in the cross-section of the slab-mold in Fig. 7. 
By following along the same general directions as given 
for making the bench, shown in Fig. 1, one may elaborate 
on the design of the bench pedestals. For instance, in Fig. 
8 is shown a pedestal having curved outlines. The model for 
this is made similar to the mold shown in Fig. 4, with the 
exception of the sides. A simple way to make a form for a 
design of this kind is to use sheet tin or thin galvanized iron, 
as shown in Fig. 8. If one has not the facilities for cutting 
and bending the tin to shape, any tinsmith will do it for a 
trifling cost. All that is necessary to do in this case is to 
furnish the tinsmith with a full-sized drawing of the outline 
required and the width of the tin of which to make it. This 
