December, 1909 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
463 
The Craft of Hammering and Piercing Metal 
By Mabel Tuke Priestman 
NAIL AND HAMMER are the chief 
tools needed to work up beautiful designs 
on metal. There is a wide field for original 
work in this direction, and no end of uses 
to which it can be put. Pewter, tin, cop- 
per, or brass, can, any of them, be dec- 
orated in this manner, after the article is 
hammered into the desired shape. 
Repoussé work is done in two ways: 
one by hammering on the face with a 
tool so that the background is driven 
in, and the design remains in relief; 
the other method is done by laying the 
metal face downward on a yielding bed 
of pitch or soft wood and pushing out 
the design by hammering. ‘The first 
process is the one used for pierced 
metal and has the advantage of re- 
quiring very few tools. 
A block or panel of soft pine wood 
about 8 x 8 and about an inch deep 
must be procured. Sheets of brass or 
copper may be had in many sizes, six 
to twelve inches being a useful size to 
select. Choose a thickness that can 
readily be cut with the shears. No. 25 
gage is a good medium weight of sheet 
metal. See that the metal is free from 
blemishes, scratches or indentations. 
The following materials are needed 
for doing the work: a wooden mallet, 
a small round-faced hammer, tracers 
or nails (the ordinary 10-penny wire- 
nails will answer, and several sizes 
must be bought), a pair of shears, a 
vise and a hardwood block, pliers, a 
file, a rivet set and some small rivets. 
Then get a piece of metal and iron it 
flat, or hammer on the hardwood block, screwing it onto 
the block near the edge of the metal. The design having 
been decided on, it must first be drawn on thin strong paper 
with a very black pencil. Then gum the edges to hold it in 
place and go over it with a paper-knife or any hard sub- 
stance, rubbing carefully until the pattern is transferred. 
Carbon-paper can be used if preferred, and the outline 
must then be gone over with a dull-pointed instrument. 
Then go over the design with pen and ink, after removing 
the paper. It is al- 
ways best to go over 
the design a third 
time with a sharp 
instrument or 
scratch-awl, as the 
ink-lines are easily 
effaced by the hand 
passing over the 
metal. 
The most  inter- 
esting part is done 
next; namely, that 
of hammering the 
background with a 
Electrolier with pierced holders 
Hammered and pierced metal ornaments for the desk 
sharp nail, allowing it to pierce the background each time 
it is hammered, being very careful not to go over the edge 
of the design as it must stand out in sharp relief without 
jagged edges. Do each piece in turn until all are decorated, 
when they are ready to be hammered into shape. 
It will be best for the beginner to start on a simple form 
like a lamp-shade. This is made in the form of a circle. 
Take a compass and describe first the inner circle, which 
will be the top of the shade, then the 
depth must be decided upon, and the 
other circle drawn at the required 
depth from the same center. More 
than half a circle will be needed for 
the correct flare and about one-fifth of 
the remaining half circle will be found 
to make a well-proportioned shade. 
A flap must be left for going under- 
neath the joint at one side. When the 
shade is decorated it is then riveted. 
The pattern should never extend to the 
extreme edge of the shade. A good 
wide margin at the top and bottom 
greatly improves it. Make the de- 
sign on paper and glue it onto the 
metal and transfer it as already de- 
scribed, carefully outlining the pattern 
with a scratch-awl, then remove the 
paper by washing it off, and prick the 
background with a sharp nail, or a pin 
placed in a tool-handle. When all the 
background is perforated with even 
holes, it is ready for the final process. 
Cut the shade out of the piece of 
metal, with the shears, and file the 
edges smooth. Turn the edges back 
with the pliers, and hammer on the 
back of the metal until they are firm 
and even, the double metal at the top 
and bottom makes a much more finished article. Then bend 
the shade up with the hands, as evenly as possible, and 
hammer with the mallet, being careful not to close up the 
whole when the shade is compressed until the flap overlaps. 
Mark the places for the middle rivet-hole on the flap and 
shade, punch and rivet. Then proceed with the other rivets 
in the same manner. 
The process of riveting is done in the following way: 
After marking the place on the metal where the rivets are 
to go, see that the 
underpiece is accur- 
ately measured. 
Then punch with a 
nail upon the end 
of the hardwood 
block, using the 
steel hammer as the 
striking tool. The 
holes should be 
rather larger than 
the rivets. After the 
punching, a_ little 
rim is left around 
the hole; this must 
