December, 1909 
in Fig. 4. The under side of this coping should also be 
provided with a groove, as shown in Fig. 8, of the same 
dimensions as the grooves in the sides of the posts, so that 
it can be let down on and securely cemented to the top of 
the panel. This coping can be cast in a wooden mold made 
as shown in Fig. 8. A strip of wood, tapered on the sides 
as sho-yn, can be used to form the groove in the bottom of 
the coping. The mold should first be filled to within the 
thickness of this strip from its top. The strip should then 
be centered, and the concrete filled in on both sides of it 
until flush with the top of the mold. A mixture composed 
of 1 dart of Portland cement to 3 parts of sand and fine 
gravel will give good results for this class of work. 
Another very effective panel for fences is the rubble panel 
made of field stone shown in Fig. 5. This is made in a 
mold composed of four pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch lumber. 
This frame is made of the desired size of the finished panel. 
It is then laid down flat on a good level piece of ground 
and filled in with about 1 inch of cement mortar composed 
of 1 part Portland cement and 3 parts of sand. A sheet 
of steel reinforcing mesh, such as expanded metal or steel 
rods, is then placed on top of this 1 inch of mortar, and 
over the reinforcing is deposited about 2 inches more of the 
cement mortar, into which the field stones are embedded. 
The stones, before embedding into the mortar, should be 
well wet down. This panel should be allowed to harden, 
before attempting to raise it from its position, for at least 
from four to six days. It should also be occasionally well 
sprinkled with water. After it has thoroughly hardened 
it can be set up in place between the fence-posts in a similar 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
473 
manner as explained for setting up the diamond design of 
the panel. After this panel has been set in place, the rough 
side of it can be cleaned off and well wet down and finished, 
by means of plastering it with a cement mortar made of 1 
part Portland cement to from 2 to 3 parts of sand. 
The same rubble effect can be obtained in a solid wall by 
building up on the foundation a wooden mold, as shown in 
Fig. 6. This mold should then be filled in with heavy and 
light field stone, and when the mold is filled level with the 
top, a fairly thin creamy mixture of 1 part Portland cement 
to 2 parts of sand can be poured into the mold. ‘This 
cement grout, as it is called, will find its way into all of 
the crevices or voids between the stones, and will securely 
cement them together. The mold should be removed in 
from twelve to twenty-four hours at the longest. The 
surface of the wall should then be scrubbed down well with 
a good stiff wire brush and plenty of water. ‘This treat- 
ment will remove all of the surface cement, and thus ex- 
pose the stone to view. If desired, a coping can then be 
cemented to the top of the wall, as shown in Fig. 5. A 
wall of this kind can be made of any length. Fence-posts 
can then be cast in place at the ends, or they can be cast 
separately, as previously explained and set up in place. 
As stated above, when panels are used in the construction 
of a fence, the posts should always be cast with a groove or 
recess for them to fit into. When assembling a panel fence, 
the first post should be firmly cemented in position on the 
foundation or base with a mixture of cement mortar com- 
posed of 1 part Portland cement to 2 parts of sand. One 
end of the panel should then be located in the groove in 
Fig. 10—Garden with cement balustrade and ornaments 
