474 AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
the fence-post, and should be tempo- 
rarily held in position until the next 
post is moved up into place, so as to 
engage the other end of the panel in 
the groove cast in its side. The sec- 
ond post and the panel should then be 
trued up and held in position by 
wooden wedges. The whole then 
should be firmly cemented in place with 
cement mortar, and the remaining 
posts and panels set up in like manner 
on the foundation until the fence is 
complete. 
Low cement copings, such as shown 
in Fig. 11, are much in vogue along 
the sides of paths as well as some- 
times being used to indicate the divid- 
ing line between two pieces of property. 
These copings can be easily construc- 
ted by the use of two boards, a few 
wooden pegs, and a metal template 
cut to the desired outline of the top 
of the finished coping. The first 
thing to do is to set the boards up 
along the foundation or base, as 
shown in Fig. 9, which has pre- 
Fig. | 1|—Low cement coping 
viously been made to the desired 
width, then drive in the wooden 
pegs as shown, spacing them about 
16 inches apart. Nail the side 
boards to them firmly, and then line 
up the sides and level off the top 
of the boards. Now fill in the 
space between the boards 
with a mixture of 1 part 
Portland cement and 4 parts 
of fairly coarse sand. 
Do not make this mixture 
too wet. Now make a 
former or template out of a 
heavy piece of tin or gal- 
vanized iron. Cut this to: 
the form of the desired shape 
Yoggt e holes 
Fig. 15—Removing the mold 
December, 1909 
edges of it lap over the sides of the 
boards, as shown at 4. 
Now on the cement already placed 
between the side boards build up more 
of the mixture until it reaches high 
enough to be scraped or cut off by the 
template as it is moved back and forth 
over the top of the side boards. Keep 
adding cement to the top of the coping 
and packing it down, at the same time 
moving the template back and forth 
until a good smooth even surface is 
obtained of the same outline as the 
cut-out portion of the template or 
former. 
With this method a coping of any 
desired shape and length can be made 
at a small expense. 
Probably one of the oldest designs 
of fence, and one that is still popular 
for certain architectural effects, is 
the balustrade. ‘This is made up 
of a number of small pillars set on 
a base and topped off with a cop- 
ing, as indicated in the half-tone 
illustration, Fig. ro. Formerly 
Fig. 14—Ready to pour 
these balustrades were made of 
stone or marble, and were used only 
in the highest class of work, owing 
to their great cost, due to the fact 
that each baluster had to be cut 
out of a solid block or piece of 
stone. 
These balustrades are now 
made of concrete, and are 
used in places where for- 
merly, owing to their ex- 
pense, their use was prohibi- 
tive. The half-tone illustra- 
tions shown in Figs. 12, 13, 
14, 15, 16 and 17 show dif- 
ferent views of the plaster 
mold in which the balusters 
are cast, as well as the va- 
of the top of the coping, and 
nail it securely to a piece of 
I-inch board, as shown in 
the illustration. Place this 
in position on the top of the 
two side boards, letting the 
a Lind View eZ y 
ya 
Baluster 
on all four 
sides with 
Paster 
4 about Lo" 
Clay\ thick 
“Jogyle holes 
Fig. 16—Mbold for concrete balustrade 
rious steps in the making of 
a concrete baluster. The 
first thing to do in order to 
make the mold for a concrete 
baluster is to procure a 
