December, 1909 
model. This can be of either wood, plaster, or stone, or 
it can be modeled in clay. Perhaps the cheapest way would 
be to procure from a carpenter or builder a stock model 
of a wood baluster of pleasing design. This should be 
well coated with two or three coats of shellac. It should 
then be oiled and placed on the working bench, as shown 
Fig. |7—Pointing up baluster 
in Fig. 16. A square block of plaster 4d, 1 inch to 1% 
inches in thickness, to correspond in size and shape to the 
base B of the baluster, should then be made. ‘This should 
be placed and secured to the end of the baluster at B, as 
indicated. Now take some modeler’s clay and place it 
along the entire length of 
the baluster from C to D, 
as indicated by the shaded 
portions e and f in the 
end view No. 1, Fig. 16. 
Smooth off the surfaces g 
and h of the clay to an 
angle of about 45 degrees. 
After having prepared the 
clay on the model of the 
baluster, as described above, 
block up the two ends by 
placing against them two 
pieces of board, as shown 
at h and i. Now get a 
fairly large tin dishpan and 
partly fill it with water, and 
to this add plaster of Paris, 
at the same time stirring it 
well, until the mixture is of 
the consistency of thick 
cream. Pour this mixture 
over the model of the bal- 
uster and into the cavity 
formed by the clay strips 
and the two end boards. 
Allow the plaster to set or 
harden for about ten min- 
utes, after which time the 
clay and end boards can be 
removed. Now turn the 
model over, letting it rest 
on the plaster shell just 
cast, as shown in Fig 16. 
Then proceed as before to 
cast a plaster-shel] on side 
K of the model, using the 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
475 
clay sides and end boards. After the plaster has hardened, 
remove the clay and boards and turn the model over into 
the position indicated in Fig. 16. Cut joggle holes in to 
the angular faces of the plaster-shell, as indicated in the 
various half-tone illustrations, then shellac and oil these sur- 
Fig. 20—Cement mortar fence complete 
faces well. Now proceed to cast section L of the plaster 
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Fig. 18—Details of metal frame and cement mortar fence 
mold. After this is hardened, turn the model over again 
and cast section N of the mold, as shown in Fig. 16. Let 
this harden for from ten to fifteen minutes. Now, if the 
angular edges of the plaster have been properly oiled as 
directed, a slight tapping here and there on the plaster-shell 
will be sufficient to release 
it from the model of the 
baluster. The inside of the 
plaster mold should now be 
cleaned up and be given 
two coats of shellac. After 
drying it should be well 
oiled with a fairly thick oil 
to prevent the cement, 
when casting, from adher- 
ing to it. Before assem- 
bling the various parts of 
the mold, a hole should be 
made in the center of the 
piece 4. This hole should 
be about % inch deep and 
large enough to receive the 
end of a %-inch round rod. 
Each baluster should be 
cast with a rod of this size 
running through it, from 
end to end. This rod not 
only acts as a reinforcing 
for the baluster, but it also 
helps to hold them firmly 
in place when setting them 
up in the balustrade. Now 
assemble the various parts 
of the plaster mold, and 
secure them firmly together 
by irons shaped as shown in 
the half-tone illustrations, 
Figs. 14 and 15. To cast 
the baluster, set the mold 
on end, as shown in Fig. 
14, and fill it with a mix- 
ture of 1 part Portland 
