476 
cement, 2 parts of sand, and 3 parts of broken stone or 
gravel not to exceed % inch in size. Mix these all together 
thoroughly until dry, and then add enough water to this 
mixture to make it of a creamy consistency, so that it can 
be poured into the mold from a pail as shown. After pour- 
ing, let the mold set on end, undisturbed, for about twenty- 
four hours. At the end of this time the concrete will be 
hard enough to allow of the removal of the mold. 
Before casting the next baluster, clean and oil the inside 
of the mold well. If any part of the baluster should have 
been injured in removing the mold, it can be readily pointed 
up with a cement mortar made of 1 part Portland cement to 
2 parts of sand. Wet the injured portion well before start- 
ing to point it up, for if this is not done, trouble will be had 
in getting the mortar to adhere to the baluster. 
The base upon which to set the balusters can be made in 
a similar manner as described for the making of the low 
‘coping, previously explained; but instead of having a curved 
outline to the top, the base upon which to set the balusters 
should be made flat. Holes can be made at proper intervals 
in the top of the base, to receive the 1%-inch rods which are 
cast in the balusters, while the cement is still in a soft state. 
This will facilitate matters when setting up the balustrade. 
The coping can be cast in a square wooden mold in any 
lengths desired in a similar manner as described for the 
casting of the coping for the lattice panel explained above. 
In setting up the balustrade wet all part which are to be 
cemented together, and use a cement mortar composed of 
1 part Portland cement to 2 parts of sand. 
The combination metal frame and cement mortar fence 
is used where a good, neat, strong and permanent structure 
is desired. Its life is practically unlimited, and the cost for 
maintenance, when properly built, is nothing. No molds 
or wooden forms are required in its construction. It is 
made up on a steel skeleton covered with metal lath. In 
the fence here illustrated expanded metal lath was used. 
A detail of the steel skeleton or framework is shown in 
Fig. 18, and in Fig. 19 is shown the progressive operations 
in the building of the structure. Fig. 20 shows the fence 
as it appears when completed. 
On referring to Fig. 18, a clear idea of how the frame- 
work is assembled will be obtained. The posts are made 
of 3-inch steel I beams, and are firmly embedded in a foun- 
dation of concrete 15 inches square by 3 feet deep. As 
shown, they are placed at 8 feet 3 inches centers, and the 
total height of the posts from the bottom of the foundation 
to their tops is g feet. The top and bottom rails are made 
of 2%-inch x 2™%-inch steel angles. It will be noticed that 
the bottom rail is placed with the point of the angle down. 
The object of this is to relieve the fence, to a large extent, 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
December, 1909 
from the upward pressure due to the rising of the ground 
in the spring time. If the bottom was left flat, as is usually 
done, a direct pressure would come on it, but by forming 
it, as shown, the tendency, when the ground rises, is for it 
to slide off on each side, thus relieving the fence of the direct 
pressure which it would otherwise be subjected to. 
Midway between the posts are secured to the top and 
bottom rail 1-inch x r-inch x %-inch angles, and in the cen- 
ter of these angles, as well as in the webs of the I beams 
used for the posts, are provided three 3£-inch holes, through 
which are inserted three 14-inch round steel rods. 
After this framework is set up, metal lath is wired to it, 
as shown in Fig. 19, and the steel skeleton is then complete 
and is ready for the application of the cement mortar. 
The first coat of cement mortar should be made up of 1 
part Portland cement to 2 or 3 parts of fairly coarse sand, 
and should contain a sufficient amount of long cow or goat- 
hair to form a good key. The first coat should. be applied 
to the thickness of about 1 inch, and its face should be well 
scratched to make a good key for the second coat to bond 
to. After this coat has been applied to one side of the lath 
and has become hard, the reverse side of the fence, the sur- 
face of which will appear very rough, should first be thor- 
oughly saturated with water and then be plastered, to a like 
thickness, with a mortar of the same composition, except 
that the hair should be omitted. ‘The posts should be treated 
with mortar in the same manner as the panels, forming them 
into shape as the work progresses. ‘he finishing coat can 
now be applied to both sides. ‘The cement mortar for the 
finish should be of the same proportion as used for the first 
coat; but before applying it, be sure to saturate the first coat 
with water, for if this is not done, a good bond between the 
first and finish coat will not be obtained. The top of the 
fence can be finished off square or a coping can be placed 
on it, as fancy dictates. If a coping is desired, it can be 
cast separately and set in place, or it can be run in place in 
a similar manner as previously explained for making a low 
coping. 
The surface of the fence can be finished with any one of 
the artistic surfaces which are possible to obtain with this 
material, such as a rough or smooth surface, slap dash, peb- 
ble dash, or rough cast. Even some color can be incor- 
porated, if so desired. ‘The dimensions for the framework, 
as well as the construction of the frame as given in Fig. 18, 
are of a specific case, and are given more as a suggestion as 
to what can be done along these lines rather than to follow 
in detail. 
The general principles given for the construction of this 
type of fence can be modified to suit any size or shape of 
fence demanded by the various conditions that may arise. 
