July, 1908 



AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 



vu 



During dry periods the beds should not be 

 allowed to dry out, the evaporation of moist- 

 ure from the wet soil under the influence of a 

 hot sun produces much the same atmosphere 

 as that they enjoyed in the greenhouse and 

 results in magnificent bloom. In wet weather 

 less water will be needed but more cultiva- 

 tion, and the ground must be frequently stirred 

 •that it may not become sour or musty. In hot 

 muggy weather it is better to water early in 

 the evening, or so that the foliage shall have 

 time to dry off before dark, as there will, 

 then, be less danger of mildew — a prevalent 

 trouble with the tea rose. 



Frequent doses of liquid manure will be 

 needed by the rose beds if notable blooms are 

 to be produced. This may be prepared by 

 filling a kerosene barrel with manure, first 

 placing a spiggot in one side near the bottom 

 and placing an armful of straw in the bottom 

 of the barrel — enough to come up above the 

 end of the spiggot and act as a filter. The 

 barrel should then be filled with water, and 

 will be ready for use almost at once ; this may 

 be drawn off and applied to the rose bed twice 

 a week through the season. 



Young rose bushes rarely need pruning the 

 first year, and the frost may be trusted to at- 

 tend to the matter the second. Should this, 

 however, not be the case, they may be lightly 

 trimmed before commencing growth in the 

 spring. There is no fixed rule for trimming 

 roses, but it may be considered safe to remove 

 all weak, broken and dead branches ; any 

 branch that crowds against another to its in- 

 jur}-, and to thin out plants that have grown 

 too close so that the sun and air cannot reach 

 every part of it. In cutting back roses shorten 

 to where the new leaf buds present a plump 

 and strong appearance. Plants that bloom 

 during summer should be freely cut from, and 

 if in cutting the roses a generous length of 

 stem is removed each time, little if any prun- 

 ing will be necessary. 



It is doubtful if there is any absolutely safe 

 manner of protecting tender roses during win- 

 ter; certainly I have never found one. If one 

 could know just what the winter would be 

 one could protect accordingly with some hopes 

 of success; unfortunately this is seldom the 

 case, and our most carefully devised scheme of 

 protection may prove a death trap for our 

 treasures. The banking with earth to the tips 

 offers as scientific a scheme of protection as 

 any, but even that fails at times, and also in- 

 volves an immense amount of labor. Cover- 

 ing with evergreen boughs is often successful, 

 especially when it is further protected with a 

 blanket of snow, and the snow alone is an 

 ideal protection when it remains all winter, 

 but snow that comes and goes plays havoc with 

 all the garden's treasures. 



Probably the safest and surest protection is 

 found in the large span-roofed garden frames 

 which are made large enough to cover the en- 

 tire bed, are wind and water-tight, and may 

 be taken apart and removed when the need 

 of them is passed. These are filled with dry 

 leaves tucked in between the roses and piled 

 lightly over them, and as they remain dry 

 through the winter are a real protection, not 

 only from the cold, but alike from the sun, 

 which really does the real harm to the rose 

 bed by shining on the frozen branches and by 

 sudden thawing causing them to burst. In 

 using these garden frames it will be found 

 a good plan, after the leaves are all tucked 

 around the roses, to place a width of wire net- 

 ting over the top of the roses, securing it 

 firmly to the inside edge of the frame and 

 place a layer of leaves over this — this is to in- 

 sure the covering of the roses as the leaves 

 beneath the wire settle gradually by their own 

 weight, and sinking below the tops of the 

 plants leave them exposed. 



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