XII 



AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 



October, 1908 



VACUUM 

 CLEANING 



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Details of Building 

 Construction 





A collection of 33 plates of scale 

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By CLARENCE A. MARTIN 



Assistant Professor, College of Architecture. 

 Cornell University 



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Many of these shrubs grew so fast that I 

 could divide them after one season, and they 

 were multiplied in that way until I was "over- 

 stocked." 



Some trees were grown from seed. My 

 Gleditschia triacanthus, for instance, came 

 from seed that I picked up in a certain famous 

 "yard" in Cambridge. 



Cuttings of ivy from famous English ruins 

 or graves I have had poor luck with. Per- 

 haps because the cuttings were badly handled 

 before they reached me. 



Roses I bought from mail-order nurseries. 

 They were tiny things, but grew well, and 

 the climbing sorts were layered until the 

 original five became twenty. 



The trees should be transplanted in the 

 nursery every year or two in order to have 

 them make a growth of fibrous roots, and 

 with the oaks especially to prevent the growth 

 of a long top root. 



Nut trees are best grown from seed which 

 can be planted in the autumn, or if the nuts 

 are kept in sand all winter they may be planted 

 in the spring. This is the surest way to get 

 a good catch, as the seed planted in October 

 may be found by squirrels. It is useless to 

 plant nuts which have been dried for eating, 

 as the drying destroys their vitality. It is 

 nearly impossible to transplant trees like the 

 hickory, chestnut, walnut and butternut, and 

 the feat is not worth attempting, as they grow 

 rapidly from seed. 



Put five or six nuts in hills ten or fifteen 

 feet apart. Those that come up can be thinned 

 as may be necessary for the health of the 

 strongest specimens. 



It is an open question with people who plant 

 many trees, whether anything is gained by 

 planting large trees, and it seems probable that 

 a small tree (an oak say one and one-half 

 inches in diameter and eight feet high) will 



in ten years be larger and better than a tree 

 seven or eight inches in diameter and twenty 

 feet high planted at the same time. 



TREES FOR THE BIRDS 



J. A. L. — There are several trees which you 

 can plant about your house to attract birds, 

 and most of them are beautiful trees. 



Cherries, of course, the birds eat eagerly, 

 but the tree is not a very charming one, ex- 

 cept when it is in blossom ; at other times it 

 has too utilitarian an aspect. 



The mulberry, whose fruit ripens next after 

 the cherries, is a picturesque tree, but the ber- 

 ries are a great nuisance except that they 

 bring the birds in great numbers. The mul- 

 berry should not be planted near the house, as 

 the berries, which make a bad stain on clothes, 

 cover the ground under the tree for about two 

 weeks. 



Birds eat wild cherries (Prunus serotina), 

 but not so much as the mulberries, perhaps be- 

 cause they come at a time when there are many 

 bush fruits ripe. 



Eleagnus longipes bears a palatable red 

 berry which seems to be a dainty for the birds ; 

 at any rate I never get a ripe one, so I think 

 the birds watch it closely and pounce on every 

 berry as soon as it has developed properly. 



The sassafras berries the birds are very fond 

 of, and it would be impossible to find a more 

 lovely tree at any season or one that is so little 

 planted. 



The high holes (flickers) apparently like 

 the Pepperidge berries more than any other, 

 for the trees seem always full of high holes 

 when the berries are ripe. This, too, is a 

 magnificent shade tree, and, like the sassafras, 

 it is distinguished in winter by its interesting 

 skeleton of twigs and branches. 



Ordinary fruit trees attract the fowls of the 

 barn yard more than those of the air, I think, 



