April, 1911 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
Delectable “‘ Sweets and Sours” 
from Old-time Recipes 
SPICED APPLE JELLY 
LD-FASHIONED housewives— 
especially the thrifty home-keep- 
ers of New England—held the 
secret of making a spicy and delicious 
jelly from the comparatively worthless 
buried-apples of early spring. We sel- 
dom taste in these days a jelly with a 
flavor so peculiarly rich and spicy. When 
the jelly closet is empty just before the 
iresh fruits and berries begin to appear, 
a thing to be reckoned with is the un- 
palatable condition of the kept-over fruits 
and their lack of flavor for jelly making. 
In New England they used to bury the 
apples in underground pits when it was 
desirable to keep over a quantity for use 
in the spring. Naturally these old apples 
“tasted of the earth” and those kept over 
in the cellars were spongy and juiceless 
at the approach of spring. 
Some of our cold-storage apples of to- 
day that are kept till fresh apples come 
again are equally lacking in flavor and 
juiciness in the spring and early sum- 
mer. Yet, when they are manipulated 
by the same processes as used by the old 
New England housewives, the jelly is 
even more delicious than when made in 
the usual manner simply as apple jeily. 
For this richly spiced apple jelly, our 
grandmothers washed and quartered the 
apples, removing all “specks,” but leav- 
ing on the skin. They were then put in 
a preserving kettle with sufficient liquid 
to keep from burning—using one part 
water and two parts vinegar. When 
boiled until thoroughly done, with all the 
juice and jelly substance substracted 
from the skins, the whole was poured 
into a cheese cloth bag and allowed to 
drip until all the clear juice was secured. 
This juice was then measured, an equal 
quantity of sugar added, with a teaspoon- 
ful of whole cloves, a teaspoonful of 
broken mace and one of stick cinna- 
mon broken in small pieces for each 
quart of the syrup. It is important to 
avoid the use of ground spices for clear 
jelly, and even the whole cloves and 
other spices should be tied loosely in a 
bag to avoid ‘“‘specking” the jelly. When 
boiled until ready to “‘jell,’ the spices 
were removed, the liquid poured into 
glasses, and covered when cold, and the 
result was a clear, red jelly, much more 
attractive in appearance than the usual 
apple jelly and of a rich, fine flavor. 
For a change in making apple jellies 
at any season of the year, it will be pleas- 
ing to have a portion of it spiced, for 
variety in color and flavor; but it is espe- 
cially wise to “doctor up” old apples by 
this process. 
APPLE-LEMON JELLY 
Lemons are scarce and high in the 
spring, it is true, but it will be desir- 
able to include apple-lemon jelly in the 
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emergency preserves; and, after all, very 
few lemons will be required for good re- 
sults when intelligently used. After pre-|//7 
paring the apple juice as for the spiced |¥ 
jelly, do not add spices, but prepare the 
clear slightly acid jelly in the usual way. 
If the lemons are sufficiently plentiful 
one lemon may be added to two quarts 
of apple juice; slice the yellow rind from 
the lemon in small pieces, pare off and 
discard the white inner coating, then 
slice the juicy pulp, throwing away the 
seeds, boil up with the apples, and strain 
the juice through the cheesecloth bag. 
The picturesque part of the lemon jelly 
is the finishing touch, however. After 
the juice has jelled, and is ready for 
pouring into the glasses, slice fresh, juicy 
lemons, cutting through the rind and 
pulp and forming the circular slices about 
a sixteenth of an inch thick, or as thin as 
can be sliced. Remove the seeds. Place a 
slice in each glass, and pour the hot jelly 
over it. No other cooking will be re- 
quired. Then with a silver fork, make 
each circle of lemon stand on edge where 
it will show to best advantage through 
the glass and it will retain this position 
when the jelly is cool and firm, and is 
especially attractive when the mold of 
jelly is turned from the glass for serving. 
Not only is the distinct lemon flavor of 
this jelly pleasing, but the decorative fea- 
ture is unique—and how the children 
clamor for that slice of lemon, to be 
dipped in sugar and nibbled after the 
jelly is served. 
Here is a secret that our grandmothers 
understood—jelly can be made from 
dried apples that will vie with the fresh 
apple jelly in quality, color and flavor. 
The ‘old-time sun-dried apples with the 
skins left on are the ones to be used if 
possible, instead of the white, evaporated 
apples. In some portions of New Eng- 
land it was customary each summer to 
dry all the apples, to be set aside with 
the skins left on, for spring jelly mak- 
ing. Other “wind-blown and specks,” as |™™ 
the unmarketable apples were called, 
were used for cider making, for immedi- 
ate jelly making, and for summer apple 
sauce, with a certain proportion dried 
without the skins—the thrifty house- 
wives using the skins from the drying 
apples for the fresh-apple jelly. But a 
goodly proportion of the dried apples 
were simply washed and cored, cut into 
drying slices, and dried in the sun. These 
were dependable for fine jellies in the 
early summer, between the season of the 
“kept-overs” and the “new” apples. 
7 
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SPICY APPLE BUTTER 
Again we can follow the thrift of the 
old-time housekeeper by utilizing all the 
apple pulp from which the jelly juice has 
been drained. Rub it through a fine colan- 
der to remove all skins and waste. The 
fresh apple pulp from the lemon jelly can 
simply be sweetened and served with a 
dash of grated nutmeg. The pulp from 
the spiced apples and the dried apples 
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