Apples from an unsprayed tree 
and the twigs, wintering over in the cankers on the young 
twigs. 
These cankers may be readily recognized by the fact that 
they are a characteristic cinnamon brown color. 
Unlike the apple scab, the infection from the apple 
blotch takes place comparatively late in the development 
of the apple—the first infection occurring about a month 
after the period of bloom. Consequently, the first spraying 
for the prevention of this disease should be made some 
time between three and four weeks after the petals have 
fallen. 
Black Rot.—This is a disease that is sometimes confused 
with the bitter rot. It occurs not only on the fruit, but on 
the leaves and branches as well. On the branches it is re- 
sponsible for very serious cankers and often we will find 
entire trees destroyed by this disease. 
Brown Rot.—Brown rot is more properly called storage 
rot, being much more common on stored fruit than it is on 
the fruit in the orchard. Well grown fruit, however, will be 
more resistant to the brown rot when put in storage than 
will fruit that has been neglected in the orchard, poorly 
grown, misshapen and cracked. On some varieties the 
brown rot makes its appearance in the orchard while the 
fruit is still on the tree. This is notably true of the Jeniton, 
a variety which often cracks in the fall of the year as it 
hangs on the tree. These cracks give excellent entrance 
points for the spores of the brown rot fungus, and as a 
result we have the disease occurring in the orchard. Where 
the trees are sprayed with diluted lime and sulphur, the 
fruit is much less liable to crack than if it is neglected, or 
if it is sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. Consequently, 
proper spraying with diluted lime and sulphur, as will here- 
after be recommended, will do a great deal to control this 
rot on the Jeniton and other varieties which are subject to 
the brown rot in the orchard. 
SPRAYING 
WHAT To Spray WITH 
As has been mentioned before, we have two general 
classes of pests which work to prevent proper development 
of the apple. Consequently, we must have a solution which 
will deal with both of these pests at the same time, or else 
we must make two separate and distinct sprays. It has 
been found in practice that a “‘shot-gun prescription,” such 
as the following, will not only prevent the fungous dis- 
eases, but will poison all the chewing insects mentioned as 
well. This preparation is termed a “poisoned fungicide.” 
The following solution is recommended: 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
199 
Commercial lime and sulphur solution (similar 
to that used for the contro] of the San José 
Scamp MeRWANLETAtIINe ace -ia ns 2 as 2 =. 2 1 gallon 
PAGS CUAL CmOMBeAMMIy HS. tment s 2 Shee 2 3 pounds 
Water 
40 gallons 
Any of the common brands of commercial lime and sul- 
phur solution now on the market will prove effective for 
this work. The arsenate of lead which is used should be 
tested with litmus paper before it is added to the lime and 
sulphur solution. 
The arsenate of lead should be neutral in reaction—that 
is, it should not affect either red or blue litmus paper. 
Very often the preparations of arsenate of lead which 
we buy are what are known as acid arsenates, and will 
turn blue litmus paper red. Such a preparation should not 
be used in connection with any lime and sulphur solution, 
as it causes the sulphur solution to decompose and lose its 
eficiency. 
TIMES TO SPRAY 
The exact time for spraying must be determined by the 
orchardist for his particular locality. I have no faith in 
spraying calendars, and the following schedule of sprays 
is not to be considered to be an exact calendar for apple 
spraying in any sense of the word. It is simply a recom- 
mendation that has been found to be effective in many sec- 
tions. 
First. This spraying is applied before the blossoms 
open, and is intended to prevent the early infection of the 
apple scab on the leaves, and is also intended to poison 
many of the plum curculio which feed on the young leaves 
at this time. 
Second. This spraying is made after the petals have 
fallen, and is intended to poisun the codling moth and the 
apple worm, and some of the late feeding curculio; to 
prevent scab and to repel the apple curculio. ‘This spray- 
ing must be made after the petals have fallen and before 
the calyx lobes close. In fact, it should be made just as 
soon after the petals have fallen as possible. In no case 
should this spray be made when the flowers are in bloom, 
as a double injury may result. In the first place the arsen- 
ate and the sulphur solution may destroy the essential flower 
parts and in the second place, the bees, which are gathering 
nectar from the flowers, may be poisoned. This would 
be an injury quite as serious to the orchard owner as to the 
bee-keeper. 
Third. The third spraying is made from ten days to 
two weeks later. ‘This spraying should also be made, if 
possible, before the calyx lobes close, and is intended to 
Det orp, sama tee wht. 
‘{ why 
Apples from a sprayed tree 
