200 
supplement the second spraying, to cover up any defective 
work which might have occurred during the work of the 
second spraying, and also to allow for any solution that 
might have washed off during the intervening rains. 
Fourth. This spraying should be made some time in 
July at the time of the hatching of the second brood of 
codling moths and apple worms. The appearance of this 
second brood varies with different localities and with dif- 
ferent seasons. The only way in which spraying can be ac- 
curately timed is to take a few apples affected by the first 
brood of moths and place them in a “‘Mason jar” and tie a 
piece of cheesecloth tightly over the top of the jar. These 
jars can.then be set in the orchard where they will be sub- 
ject to the same weather conditions as the apples on the 
tree. Beginning early in July the jars should be watched 
daily and when the adult moths appear a few days should 
be allowed for egg laying. The spray should then be ap- 
plied to the orchard and should be applied thoroughly, as 
only painstaking work will be effective in preventing injury 
from this second brood of moths. The second brood usu- 
ally enters the apple, not at the calyx end, like the first 
brood, but at the side of the apple where two apples touch. 
It is also of great value in thinning the fruit in the orchard 
to remove one of two apples which are hanging in contact 
with each other. 
HOW TO SPRAY 
Many orchard owners who are willing to spray do not 
have the slightest idea as to how the work should be done. 
They often shy at the expense of spray pumps and at the 
difficulty of working them. As a matter of fact, a small 
pump is less costly and is far easier to work than is a plow. 
No agriculturist would consider working a two-acre gar- 
den without a plow, but many of them will attempt to grow 
perfect fruit without a spray pump. 
SPRAY MACHINES 
The commonest type of spray outfit used in small or- 
chards is what is known as a barrel outfit and consists of a 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
May, 1911 
barrel upon which is mounted.a small force pump. To this 
latter there is attached one or more hose connections with 
lines of hose running from the pump and at the end of the 
line of hose is an extension rod (so called) to enable the 
operator to direct his sprays more advantageously. At the 
end of the extension rod is a nozzle which is capable of pro- 
ducing a fine driving mist. In connection with the spray 
pump there must be some attachment which will cause the 
mixture in the barrel or tank to be violently agitated, thus 
preventing the solution from settling and interfering with 
the results obtained from the work. Any variations in this 
spraying outfit will consist simply in variations of the 
items mentioned—that is, the barrel or tank, pumps, hose, 
extension rods and types of nozzles. “Tanks may vary con- 
siderably in design and in size, some orchardists preferring 
to use a comparatively small tank in the shape of a thirty 
or a fifty gallon barrel. ‘This, of course, makes the cheap- 
est outfit and the one most generally adapted to the use of 
the small orchard owner. Larger tanks may be made of 
wood or sometimes of metal. Wood tanks, however, are 
always preferable and large tanks should be mounted on 
wheels so that the center of gravity is low in order to enable 
the outfit to drive over rougher lands than it otherwise could. 
The greatest variation in outfits will, of course, be in the 
matter of pumps. There are many different designs of 
spray pumps on the market and nearly every design is made 
in a number of sizes. 
One point in the selection of any spray pump is to see 
that it is provided with an adequate air chamber. This air 
chamber is necessary in order to secure a uniform pressure 
on the hose. Pumps will also vary in the method in which 
they are operated, the simplest of course being operated 
by hand, just as any pump would be operated. This, while 
being the cheapest and the simplest form of pump, is like- 
wise the most expensive to operate, because it requires the 
entire time of at least one man to keep it going. Some 
styles of spray outfits are arranged with gears attached to 
the wheels of the wagon on which the tank is mounted. 
Planning a Seashore Garden 
By Martha Haskell Clark 
~~) HE seashore garden is primarily a garden 
of annuals. Winter storms, drifting sand, 
poor soil, and high winds all combine to 
make a perennial garden a thing of un- 
certainty, except for those whose purses 
are very long. These favored mortals, 
by dint of deeply dug beds, loam carted 
at fabulous prices from inland farms, and trained gar- 
deners, many of whom are on guard not only in earliest 
spring, but in the winter itself, may hope to possess a truly 
satisfactory garden of perennials in the wilderness of sand 
that characterizes most of our seashore resorts. 
But for the ordinary garden amateur, possessed of more 
enthusiasm than coppers, and with the longing to brighten 
his brief vacation with a few flowers, the difficulties con- 
fronting him at the first glance at his shifting and wind- 
blown garden plot, often prove insurmountable. He has 
heard the cost of gardens around him, skeptical neighbors 
have dampened his ardor with well meant advice, and in 
the end he decides that a seashore garden, while delightful 
to the inward eye, is best left to the realm of the imagina- 
tion. 
But that it can be a thing of beauty, as well as of little 
cost, has been proved over and over again by garden lovers 
even with slim purses. 
There are two pitfalls in the making of a seaside garden, 
into which the novice is most likely to tumble headlong. 
The first is his tendency to consult the catalogues, pick out 
his favorite flowers, sow hhis seeds, and then spend the rest 
of the summer in wondering why they do not grow and 
blossom. If he passes this rampart in safety he is very 
likely to find that when his garden is at last in blossom it is 
a glaring flame of color. For it is a fact that many of the 
plants suitable for a seaside garden are of the most vivid 
hues; and one needs to make a very careful selection of 
colors if he wishes his garden to be a place of rest as well 
as of beauty. In no variety of garden should blue, white 
and the pale, cooler tints be used more lavishly. 
The first thing to consider in the making of a seaside gar- 
den is the matter of wind-breaks. These may be only two 
feet high, but in most localities they are an absolute neces- 
sity. Knowing the prevailing winds, if possible, plan your 
garden so that your cottage or stable may be a shield, and 
if this is impossible there are a variety of wind-guards to 
choose from. Bayberry and sweet-fern bushes are native to 
most coast resorts, and make admirable hedges, being trans- 
planted easily if cut back heavily and well watered. They 
can be transplanted at almost any season except mid-sum- 
mer. Birch brush driven into the sand and overgrown with 
climbing vines makes a simple and really beautiful screen 
when in blossom, and any variety of fence may, of course, 
be treated in the same way. ‘ 
