Vill 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
November, 1911 
p i | | >| | \ | (i 
ig hh IN ii 
YJ 
HERE is an example of 
the modern built-in 
bath, which lightens 
housework. 
It is one piece of snowy 
Imperiall Solid’ Poree= 
lain, glazed inside and 
out—built permanent- 
ly into the tiled floor 
and walls. 
No awkward, hard-to- 
keep-clean spaces be- 
neath or behind it. 
A damp sponge keeps 
it spotless. 
May be built in across 
end of small room, 
adapted to a recess, or 
placed in a corner. 
MODERN Write for “‘ Modern Plumbing,”’ 
PLUMBING gn 8(0-page booklet which gives 
information about every form of 
modern bathroom equipment. — It 
shows 24 model bathroom interiors 
ranging in cost from $73 to $3000. 
Sent on request with 4 cents for 
postage. 
Tue J. L. Morr Iron Works 
1828 OVER FIGHTY YEARS SUPREMACY 1911 
FirrH Ave. and SEVENTEENTH STREET, NEW YORK 
BRANCHES: Boston, Chicago, Philadelphia, Detroit, Minneapolis, 
Washington, St. Louis, New Orleans, Denver, San Francisco, San 
Antonio, Atlanta, Seattle, Portland (Ore ), Indianapolis, Pittsburgh, 
Columbus, O., Kansas City, Salt Lake City. 
CANADA: 138 Bleury Street, Montreal. 
JUST PUBLISHED 
Popular Handbook for Cement and Goncrete Users 
By MYRON H. LEWIS, C. E. 
Octavo (6% x 9% inches) 500 Pages, 200 Illustrations. 
Price, $2.50, Postpaid 
HIS is a concise treatise on the principles and methods employed in 
the manufacture and use of concrete in all classes of modern work. 
The author has brought together in this work, all the salient matter of 
interest to the users of concrete and its many diversified products. The 
matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly written, fully 
illustrated and free from involved mathematics. Everything of value to the 
concrete user is given. It is a standard work of reference covering the 
various uses of concrete, both plain and reinforced. Following is a list of 
the chapters, which will give an idea of the scope of the book and its 
thorough treatment of the subject: 
I. Historical Development of the Uses of Cement and Concrete. II. Glossary of Terms Employed in 
Cement and Concrete Work. III. Kinds of Cement Employed in Construction. IV. Limes, Ordinary and 
Hydraulic. WV. Lime Plasters. VI. Natural Cements. VII. Portland Cement. VIII. Inspection and 
Testing. IX. Adulteration; or Foreign Substances in Cement. X. Sand, Gravel, and Broken Stone. 
XI. Mortar. XII. Grout. XIII. Concrete (Plain). XIV. Concrete (Reinforced). XV. Methods and 
Kinds of Reinforcements. XVI. Forms for Plain and Reinforced Concrete. XVII. Concrete Blocks. 
XVIII. Artificial Stone. XIX. Concrete Tiles. XX. Concrete Pipes and Conduits. _XXI. Concrete 
Piles. XXII. Concrete Buildings. NXIII. Concrete in Water Works. XXIV. Concrete in Sewer Works. 
XXV i <XVI. Concrete Retaining Walls. XXVII. Concrete Arches 
and Abutments. XXVIII. Concrete in Subway and Tunnels. <XTX. Concrete in Bridge Work. 
XXX. Concrete in Docks and Wharves. XXXI. Concrete Construction Under Water. XXXII. Con- 
crete on the Farm. XXXIII. Concrete Chimneys. XXXIV. Concrete for Ornamentation. _XXXV._Con- 
crete. Mausoleums and Miscellaneous Uses. XXXVI. Inspection for Concrete Work. XXXVII. Water- 
proofing Concrete Work. XXXVIII. Coloring and_Painting Concrete Work. XXXIX. Method for 
Finishing Concrete Surfaces. XL. Specifications and Estimates for Concrete Work. 
MUNN & CO., Inc., Publishers 
361 Broadway, New York 
e 
NOVEL CLEANING METHODS 
(Continued from page Vi.) 
lent for dealing with the stains which come 
about with the standing of hot plates and 
jugs on a polished surface. Place an ordi- 
nary iron to heat on the fire. Next take a 
piece of blotting paper and fold this into 
four, finally saturating it with water. Now 
place the blotting paper over the mark, and 
then, the iron being quite hot, use it to press 
the damp sheet on to the offending scratch, 
or whatever the mark may be. Hold the 
iron in its place until the blotting paper is 
quite dry, and then examine the wood. If 
the trouble is not deep-seated it will have 
entirely disappeared, but in the case of a 
bad dent the operation described may have 
to be repeated. Eventally even the most 
refractory mark will yield to the treatment, 
and the wood has only to be repolished to 
complete the restoration. 
In most houses the paper covering the 
walls is very apt to collect the dirt. This 
gives to it a very dull appearance, and even 
if the colors have not actually faded they 
lose a good deal of their brightness. Of 
course, everything in the way of washing 
is out of the question, but by a simple ex- 
pedient it is possible to restore the paper 
to something like its original condition. 
Naturally, where the coloring is actually 
faded, no treatment will bring it back, but 
most people will be surprised to find the 
extent to which wall-paper suffers from the 
effects of dirt. The method of proceedure 
is as follows: Take a flat sponge in a dry 
condition and onto this heap clean bran; 
now rub the paper briskly for a few mo- 
ments. If it is considered to be necessary, 
the operation may be repeated, but it is 
essential that clean bran should be used 
each time. After one or more applications 
the wall-paper will be found to be quite 
fresh and bright in appearance. 
On all articles of iron or steel rust is very 
likely to accumulate. On knives and similar 
small utensils this will at times appear in 
the form of small spots, which are not al- 
ways very easy to get rid of in the ordinary 
way. The ink and typewriting eraser, now 
so commonly used in offices, will be found 
to be the best agent for dispersing the rust. 
A certain amount of grit is mixed with the 
rubber, and this is just sufficient to scratch 
away the spots of rust without scoring the 
metal, as so often happens in the case of 
emery paper. There is yet another advan- 
tage, for if the rust is situated in awkward 
corners the eraser may be cut with a knife 
to a point in such a way that the sharpened 
end can be twisted into any position. 
Unless one has a definite knowledge of 
clock work, it is natural to think that the 
cleaning of a clock is quite beyond one’s 
abilities. This is very far from being the 
case, seeing that by a very simple plan it is 
quite easy to rid the clock of all its dust 
without in any way displacing the machin- 
ery. Take a piece of cotton-wool the size 
of a hen’s egg, dip it in kerosene and then 
place it on the floor of the clock, after 
having taken out the pendulum. Now shut 
up the door of the clock and leave it for 
four or five days. At the end of this time 
the case may be opened, when a wonderful 
change will be observed to have taken place; 
the cotton-wool will have become simply 
black with dust, whilst all the parts of the 
clock will be as clean as if they were new. 
The fumes of the oil have simply loosened 
the particles of dirt, and these have fallen 
down, leaving the machinery quite free from 
any incumbrance. After this, the bearing 
parts of the clock should be lightly touched 
with a non-clogging oil to act as a lubricant. 
