PLANTING 

 <^GUIDE 



Wi 



-E CALL THE ATTENTION OF OUR CUSTOMERS 

 to this Planting Guide and Catalogue of "Floral 

 Treasures" as "first aid" to assist you in solving your 

 plant, bulb, or landscape problems. We have tried to give 

 information on the "most often asked" questions but in a 

 limited space it is impossible to cover all points. We are at your service. While we are 

 prepared to give the same prompt service to which our patrons are accustomed, there is a 

 peculiar condition for a few weeks in the Spring, when the bulk of our business is crowded 

 into a few weeks time. To relieve this congestion, may we ask you to get your order in as 

 early as possible, but be governed wholly by your planting time. Preserve this Planting 

 Guide as it is valuable the year around. 



Roses 



Your first requisite to success is to procure summer propagated — fall or winter rested — own root roses. 

 As long as a stem of such a plant remains you have the same Rose. Budded or grafted plants will throw shoots 

 from the roots and eventually sap the very life from the graft and leave you a bed of wild stuff that never blooms. 

 Our slogan for forty years, "Buy Own Root Roses" is still in vogue and from the complimentary letters received 

 this fall from New England to California and from the Lakes to the Gulf about the success of own root Roses — 

 roots the slogan firmer in our minds than ever and we still grow them by the million. 



Roses for Outdoor Planting 



THE SOIL — A deep clay loam with free drainage. If drainage is 

 bad, the soil must be thrown out to a depth of 18 inches, and, if 

 it is not convenient to use tiles, about 5 or 6 inches of broken 

 bricks or other rough material should be thrown in the bottom, 

 ana a layer of turf laid on top, grassy side down. On the top 

 of the turf should be placed a layer of well-decayed manure, 

 then a light layer of soil, and another layer of manure, on top 

 of which should be placed the remainder of the soil, to which, 

 if light and sandy, should be added a liberal supply of well- 

 chopped-up turf, raising the whole of the bed to a height of 

 about 4 inches above the original level of the soil. In case of 

 heavy land, a layer of lime rubble should be added, as this will 

 help to sweeten the soil. 



PLANTING — Should be deferred in the north until the soil is in 

 proper condition to receive the plants in the spring, as it is a 

 great mistake to plant in wet soil. Teas and Hybrid Teas 

 should be planted about 18 _ inches apart and the Hybrid 

 Perpetuals 2 feet apart, keeping all # manure away from direct 

 contact with the roots when planting. Firm the soil well 

 around the plants and give a thorough watering. 



PROTECTION — None needed in warm states. Northern States 

 must protect Teas and Hybrid Teas (the Ever-blooming class). 

 Bend the plants to the ground and cover to the depth of six or 

 eight inches with dirt, or hill them up to within 2 or 3 inches 

 of the top of plants. Do this on the approach of freezing 

 weather. Or wrap each plant with straw, ; and about this 

 wrap five or six thicknesses of newspaper; tie this at intervals, 

 leaving about three inches of plant exposed for air. More 

 plants are smothered than are frozen by the average amateur. 

 Let the straw flare out at the bottom to run water away from 

 the root of the plant when it rains. Remove this as late in the 

 spring as possible, so that you miss the late spring freezes, 

 which are death to Roses after the sap starts up. 



PRUNING — Remove all old growth from the Ever-blooming 

 class, as this induces new growth, from which you get the flowers. 

 Cut all dead growth from Hybrid Perpetuals and Hardy Climb- 

 ers after they bloom in June. The new growth starts from the 



old wood and produces the blooming wood for the coming year. 

 This pruning of Teas and Hybrid Teas should be done in early 

 spring. 



"To dig and delve in nice clean dirt 



Can do a mortal little hurt. 



To live 'mongst lush and growing things 



Is like to give the spirit wings. 



Who works 'mongst roses soon will find 



Their fragrance budding in his mind, 



And minds that sprout with roses free — ' 



Well, that's the sort of mind for me." 



FERTILIZER — Use well-rotted manure or bone-meal when plant 

 growth stops. This induces new growth, from which you get 

 the bloom. 



INSECTS — Aphis, leaf-rollers, and slugs are the most common. 

 Spray with Rose Nicotine, being sure to reach the under side 

 of the leaves and the tender tips of the branohes. We can 

 supply this at 60 cents and 85 cents per bottle. Give your 

 nearest express office. Can only be sent by express prepaid. 



MILDEW — The white mould-like stuff on tender leaves. Caused 

 by warm days and cool nights. Dust flowers of sulphur on the 

 affected leaves. Get this from the druggist. 



THE SORTS TO PLANT— To have bloom all the summer, 

 plant Tea and Hybrid Teas, known as Ever-blooming Roses. 

 They will all flower all summer under ordinary care. Keep 

 soil well stirred. Mulch to a depth of three inches with fresh 

 stable manure or lawn clippings during the heat of summer. 

 If you wish Rose hedges, use all one variety. No two sorts 

 grow alike, and an uneven hedge is unsightly. 



Southern and Pacific States should order Tea, Hybrid Tea, 

 Climbing Tea, Polyantha and Pernetiana. These are ever- 

 bloomers. Add Hybrid Perpetuals, Hardy Climbers and 

 Moss for the Northern States. 



If planted early, protect from frost, wind and sun by invert- 

 ing a fruit jar over each plant, tilting to admit a little air. 

 Whitewash the jar on the outside or wrap with paper, to break 

 the direct rays of the sun. 



Carnations 



Plant in the open ground, or in pots, make large specimens, and 

 when brought indoors in the fall produce an abundance of flowers 

 throughout the entire winter. Pinch the plant back frequently 

 during the summer season. In the fall bring indoors, place in a 

 four or five-inch pot, keep in temperature of forty or fifty degrees 

 at night. If not pinched in they will bloom profusely during the 

 summer. Any good garden soil with some well-rotted manure 

 added. 



ALL ORDERS— 



Unless Otherwise Stated 



Shipped via Parcel Post, 

 Charges Paid By Us. 



Cultivation of Dahlias 



They love an open sunny location, but succeed in partial shade. 

 Prepare the soil thoroughly by digging 12 to 18 inches deep, 

 possibly in the fall and then again in the spring, before planting. 



If the soil is poor, work in some well-rotted stable manure, or 

 artificial fertilizer, but don't overdo this. 



Dig the holes 3 feet apart, and about 6 inches deep; drive a 

 stout stake in each hole, and lay the tuber down flat, with the 

 eye to the stake, and cover with two to three inches of fine soil, 

 leaving the hole to be filled after the plant comes up. 



Plant any time between April 1st and June 15th. 



When the plants have made their third set of leaves, cut out the 

 top, to make them branch._ 



The most important thing from now on is hoeing aod culti- 

 vating the soil, until the buds appear; then give the beds a good 

 mulching of manure, to keep the ground moist; and water the 

 plants thoroughly once or twice a week. 



If red spider or thrips appears, spray with a nicotine solution. 



To have large blooms, it is absolutely necessary to disbud; that 

 means, to break off all the side shoots on each stem, above the 

 first or second set of leaves, leaving the sprouts near the base of 

 each stem, so as to insure a new crop of blossoms. Dahlias will 

 continue to bloom until the frost kills the tops; the tubers are dug 

 and stored in a dry cellar or basement, cover them with dry sand, 

 soil or sawdust, to keep from shriveling. Divide the tubers in 

 the spring after the eyes show plainly, being careful that each 

 tuber has an eye. Cover them again and keep dry until planted. 

 Wood ashes used sparingly and bone flour are essential to fine 

 Dahlias. 



