N THIS 1930 IS- 

 SUE of our "Com- 

 plete Garden Cat- 

 alog" we have en- 

 deavored to place 

 before the buying 

 public the finest 

 Plants, Bulbs and 

 Seeds to be obtained, at 

 prices which make it possi- 

 ble for every home to have 

 a garden. Most persons are 

 lovers of flowers and we 

 hope that this catalog will 

 prove interesting to you and 

 lead to a business relation- 

 ship which will prove profit- 

 able to both of us. 



ROSES/or Outdoor Planting 



THE SOIL — A deep clay loam with free drainage. If drain- 

 age is bad, the soil must be thrown out to a depth of 18 

 inches, and, if it is not convenient to use tiles, about 5 or 6 

 inches of broken bricks or other rough material should be 

 thrown in the bottom, and a layer of turf laid on top, grassy 

 side down. On the top of the turf should be placed a layer 

 of well-decayed manure, tnen a light layer of soil, and 

 another layer of manure, on top of which should be placed 

 the remainder of the soil, to which, if light and sandy, 

 should be added a liberal supply of well-chopped-up turf, 

 raising the whole of the bed to a height of about 4 inches 

 above the original level of the soil. In case of heavy land, 

 a layer of lime rubble should be added, as this will help 

 to sweeten the soil. 



PLANTING— Should be deferred in the north until the soil 

 is in proper condition to receive the plants in the spring, as 

 it is a great mistake to plant in wet soil. Teas and Hybrid 

 Teas should be planted about 18 inches apart and the Hy- 

 brid Perpetuals 2 feet apart, keeping all manure away from 

 direct contact with the roots when planting. Firm the soil 

 well around the plants and give a thorough watering. 



1930 



Garden 

 Book 



AND 



Planting 

 Guide 



PROTECTION — None needed In warm states. Northern 

 States must protect Teas and Hybrid Teas (the Ever-bloom- 

 ing class). Bend the plants to the ground and cover to the 

 depth of six or eight inches with dirt, or hill them up to 

 within 2 or 3 inches of the top of plants. Do this on the 

 approach of freezing weather. Or wrap each plant with 

 straw, and about this wrap five or six thicknesses of news- 

 paper; tie this at intervals, leaving about three inches of plant 

 exposed for air. More plants are smothered than are frozen 

 by the average amateur. Let the straw flare out at the bottom 

 to run water away from the root of the plant when it rains. 

 Remove this as late in the spring as possible, so that you miss 

 the late spring freezes, which are death to Roses after the 

 sap starts up, 



PRUNING— Remove all old growth 

 from the Ever-blooming class as 

 this induces new growth, from 

 which you get the flowers. Cut 

 all dead growth from Hybrid Per- 

 petuals and Hardy Climbers after 

 they bloom in June. The new 

 growth starts from the old wood and 

 produces the blooming wood for 

 the coming year. This pruning of 

 Teas and Hybrid Teas should be 

 done In early spring. 



! 



FERTILIZER — Use well-rotted manure or bone-meal when 



plant growth stops, 

 get the bloom. 



This induces new growth, from which you 



INSECTS — Aphis, leaf -rollers, and slugs are the most common. 

 Spray with Rose Nicotine, being sure to reach the under side 

 of the leaves and the tender tips of the branches. We can 

 supply this at 60 cents and 85 cents per bottle. Give your 

 nearest express office. Can only be sent by express prepaid. 



MILDEW — The white mould-like stuff on tender leaves. Caused 

 by warm days and cool nights. Dust flowers of sulphur on the 

 affected leaves. Get this from the druggist. 



THE SORTS TO PLANT— To^ have 



bloom all the summer, plant Tea and 

 Hybrid Teas, known as Ever-bloom- 

 ing Roses. They will all flower all 

 summer under ordinary care. Keep 

 soil well stirred. Mulch to a depth of 

 three inches with fresh stable manure 

 or lawn clippings during the heat of 

 summer. If you wish Rose hedges, 

 use all one variety. No two sorts 

 grow alike, and an uneven hedge is 

 unsightly. 



Southern and Pacific States should 

 Order Tea, Hybrid Tea, Climbing 

 Tea, Polyantha. and Pernetiana. These 

 are ever-bloomers. Add Hybrid Per- 

 petuals, Hardy Climbers and Moss 

 for the Northern States. 

 If planted early, protect from frost, 

 wind and sun by inverting a fruit jar 

 over each plant, tilting to admit a little 

 air. Whitewash the jar on the outside 

 or wrap with paper, to break the direct 

 rays of the sun. 



CARNATIONS 



Plant in the open ground, or in pots, make large specimens, 

 and when brought indoors in the fall produce an abundance of 

 flowers throughout the entire winter. Pinch the plant back 

 frequently during the summer season. In the fall bring in- 

 doors, place in a four to five-inch pot, keep in temperature of 

 forty or fifty degrees at night. If not pinched in they will 

 bloom profusely during the summer. Any good garden soil 

 with some well-rotted manure added. 



GERMAN IRIS 



IRIS — Are sun loving plants, and delight in a warm, well- 

 drained soil, where the roots at the surface can become 

 hardened in the sun; they will thrive well almost anywhere 

 except in low, wet soil, for here the roots will decay. 



CULTURE — A dry, sunny location is best, and they do well 

 in almost any soil that is not too low and damp. By all 

 means avoid fresh stable manure; use well decayed manure 

 or compost, if you must enrich the soil. Plant to depth 

 not to exceed two inches. 



Cultivation of DAHLIAS 



They love an open sunny location, but succeed in partial 

 shade. Prepare the soil thoroughly by digging 12 to 18 

 Inches deep, possibly in the fall and then again in the spring, be- 

 fore planting. 



If the soil is poor, work in some well-rotted stable manure, or 

 artificial fertilizer, but don't overdo this. 



Dig the holes 3 feet apart, and about 6 inches deep; drive 

 a stout stake in each hole, and lay the tuber down flat, with 

 the eye to the stake, and cover with 

 two to three inches of fine soil, 

 leaving the hole to be filled after 

 the plant comes up, f 



Plant any time between April 1st 

 and June loth. 



When the plants have made their 

 third set of leaves, cut out the top, 

 to make them branch. 



The most important thing from 

 now on is hoeing and cultivating 

 the soil, until the buds appear; then 

 give the beds a good mulching of 

 manure, to keep the ground moist; and water the plants thor- 

 oughly once or twice a week. 



If red spider or thrips appears, spray with a nicotine solution 

 To have large blooms, it is absolutely necessary to disbud; that 

 means, to break off all the side shoots on each stem, above the 

 first or second set of leaves, leaving the sprouts near the base of 

 each stem, so as to insure a new crop of blossoms. Dahlias will 

 continue to bloom until the frost kills the tops; the tubers are 

 dug and stored in a dry cellar or basement, cover them with 

 dry sand, soil or sawdust, to keep from shriveling. Divide the 

 tubers in the spring after the eyes show plainly, being careful 

 that each tuber has an eye. Cover them again and keep dry 

 until planted. Wood ashes used sparingly and bone flour are 

 essential to fine Dahlias. 



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