flowers and we hope 
Roses for Outdoor Planting 
THE SOIL—A deep clay loam with free drainage. 
bad, the soil must be thrown out to a depth of 18 inches, and, if 
it is not convenient to use tiles, about 5 or 6 inches of broken 
bricks or other rough material should be thrown in the bottom, 
and a layer of turf laid on top, grassy side down. On the top 
of the turf should be placed a layer of well-decayed manure, 
then a light layer of soil, and another layer of manure, on top 
of which should be placed the remainder of the soil, to which, 
if light and sat.dy, should be added a liberal supply of well- 
chopped-up turf, raising the whole of the bed to a height of 
about 4 inches above the original level of the soil. In case of 
heavy land, a layer of lime rubble should be added, as this will 
help to sweeten the soil. 
PLANTING—Should be deferred in the north until the soil is in 
proper condition to receive the plants in the spring, as it isa 
great mistake to plant in wet soil. Teas and Hybrid Teas 
should be planted about 18 inches apart and the Hybrid 
Perpetuals 2 feet apart, keeping all manure away from direct 
contact with the roots when planting. Firm the soil well 
around the plants and give a thorough watering. 
PROTECTION—None needed in warm states. Northern States 
must protect Teas and Hybrid Teas (the Ever-blooming class). 
Bend the plants to the ground and cover to the depth of six or 
eight inches with dirt, or hill them up to within 2 or 3 inches 
of the top of plants. Do this on the approach of freezing 
weather. Or wrap each plant with straw, and about this 
wrap five or six thicknesses of newspaper; tie this at intervals, 
leaving about three inches of plant exposed for air. More 
plants are smothered than are frozen by the average amateur. 
Let the straw flare out at the bottom to run water away from 
the root of the plant when it rains. Remove this as late in the 
spring as possible, so that you miss the late spring freezes, 
which are death to Roses after the sap starts up. 
If drainage is | 
PRUNING—Remove all old growth from the Ever-blooming 
class, as this induces new growth, from which you get the flowers. 
Cut all dead growth from Hybrid Perpetuals and Hardy Climb- 
ers after they bloom in June. The new growth starts from the 
old wood and produces the blooming wood for the coming year. 
This pruning of Teas and Hybrid Teas should be done in early 
spring. 
FERTILIZER—Use well-rotted manure or bone-meal when plant 
growth stops. This induces new growth, from which you get 
the bloom. 
INSECTS—Aphis, leaf-rollers, and slugs are the most common. 
Spray with Rose Nicotine, being sure to reach the under side 
of the leaves and the tender tips of the branches. We can 
supply this at 60 cents and 85 cents per bottle. Give your 
nearest express office. Can only be sent by express prepaid. 
MILDEW —The white mould-like stuff on tender leaves. Caused 
by warm days and cool nights. Dust flowers of sulphur on the 
affected leaves. Get this from the druggist. 
THE SORTS TO PLANT—To have bloom all the summer, 
plant Tea and Hybrid Teas, known as Ever-blooming Roses, 
They will all flower all summer under ordinary care. Keep 
soil well stirred. Mulch to a depth of three inches with fresh 
stable manure or lawn clippings durirg the heat of summer. 
If you wish Rose hedges, use all one variety. No two sorts 
grow alike, and an uneven hedge is unsightly. 
Southern and Pacific States should order Tea, Hybrid Tea, 
Climbing Tea, Polyantha and Pernetiana. These are ever- 
bloomers. Add Hybrid Perpetuals, Hardy Climbers and 
Moss for the Northern States. 
If planted early, protect from frost, wind and sun by invert- 
ing a fruit jar over each plant, tilting to admit a little air. 
Whitewash the jar on the outside or wrap with paper, to break | 
the direct rays of the sun. | 
N THIS 1929 ISSUE of our ““Complete Garden 
Catalog’’ we have endeavored to place before the 
buying public the finest Plants, Bulbs and Seeds 
to be obtained, at prices which make it possible 
for every home to have a garden. Most persons are lovers of 
that this catalog will prove interesting 
to you and lead to a business relationship which will prove 
profitable to both of us. 
Carnations 
Plant in the open ground, or in pots, make large specimens, and 
when brought indoors in the fall produce an abundance of flowers 
throughout the entire winter. Pinch the plant back frequently 
during the summer season. In the fall bring indoors, place in a 
four to five-inch pot, keep in temperature of forty or fifty degrees 
at night. If not pinched in they will bloom profusely during the 
eae Any good garden soil with some well-rotted manure 
added. 
German Iris 
iRiS—are sun loving plants, and delight in a warm, well drained 
soil, where the roots at the surface can become hardened in the 
sun; they will thrive well almost anywhere except in low, wet 
soil, for here the roots will decay. 
CULTURE—A dry, sunny location is best, and they do well in 
almost any soil that is not too low and damp. By all means 
avoid fresh stable manure; use well decayed manure or compost, 
if veg must enrich the soil. Plant to depth not to exceed two 
inches. 
Cultivation of Dahlias 
They love an open sunny location, but succeed in partial shade. 
Prepare the soil thoroughly by digging 12 to 18 inches deep, 
possibly in the fall and then again in the spring, before planting. 
If the soil is poor, work in some well-rotted stable manure, or 
artificial fertlizer, but don’t overdo this. 
Dig the holes 3 feet apart, and about 6 inches deep; drive a 
stout stake in each hole, and lay the tuber down flat, with the 
eye to the stake, and cover with two to three inches of fine soil, 
leaving the hole to be filled after the plant comes up. 
Plant any time between April 1st and June 15th. 
When the plants have made their third set of leaves, cut out the 
top, to make them branch. 
The most important tling from now on is hoeing and culti- 
vating the soil, until the buds appear; then give the beds a good 
mulching of manure, to keep the ground moist; and water the 
plants thoroughly once or twice a week. 
If red spider or thrips appears, spray with a nicotine solution. 
To have large blooms, it is absolutely necessary to disbud; that 
means, to break off all the side shoots on each stem, above the 
first or second set of leaves, leaving the sprouts near the base of 
each stem, so as to insure a new crop of blossoms. Dahlias will 
continue to bloom until the frost kills the tops; the tubers are dug 
and stored in a dry cellar or basement, cover them with dry sand, 
soil or sawdust, to keep from shriveling. Divide the tubers in 
the spring after the eyes show plainly, being careful that each 
tuber has an eye. Cover them again and keep dry until planted. 
Wiecd ashes used sparingly and bone flour are essential to fine 
ahlias. 
A LL Orders 
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