TRANSPLANTING. 19 



TRANSPLANTING TO THE FIELD. 



A great deal of the difficulty that has been experienced in trans- 

 planting the avocado is due to the fact that most of the trees have been 

 grown in ''fence corners," or possibly they have been permitted to 

 grow under the tree where the seed fell, thus producing tall, slender 

 seedlings, with very few branches and long taproots, but not many 

 fibrous roots. A very different result is obtained from trees grown 

 in a nursery (see PI. Ill), where, as previously stated, an abundance 

 of fibrous roots and a good bushy top are produced. A tree of this 

 kind transplants without any greater difficulty than is experienced 

 with other orchard trees. 



One hundred budded trees to an acre are sufficient. If the grower 

 proposes to have a seedling orchard the trees should be set closer — 

 160 to 200 per acre. This should be done with a view to cutting out 

 the inferior ones when they come to fruiting. Of the large-growing 

 varieties 80 trees to the acre will be found sufficient. If the variety 

 is tall and spindle shaped instead of bushy, a larger number may be 

 planted. 



In the Antillean region trees grow during the entire year, so there is 

 no sensible gradation into winter or anything that corresponds to a 

 dormant season, strictly speaking. While fruit trees are usually in a 

 more or less quiescent state during January and February, this con- 

 dition is brought about by a diminution in rainfall rather than as the 

 result of a reduction in temperature. 



The time to transplant avocados is determined, as in the case of the 

 nursery, by the presence of sufficient moisture, and a suitable moist 

 period will usually occur in Florida during June, July, or August. 

 As the expense of watering during a dry season is much greater than 

 the cost of the tree it is cheaper to set the tree out during a rainy 

 season. 



A tree should not be transplanted until it has attained a height of 

 about 3 feet in the nursery (see PI. III). 



In taking up these trees as many of the smaller roots should be 

 secured as possible. The roots should be kept moist and the tree well 

 watered when set out. The top should be cut back to some extent, 

 but enough foliage left to shade the stem. If the tree is not suffi- 

 ciently provided with leaves an artificial shade can be made by the use 

 of palmetto fans. 



TOP- WORKING TREES. 



Bearing trees may be top-worked (see PI. II, fig. 2), but it is neces- 

 sary to insert buds on vigorously-growing sprouts to succeed. If 

 there are no sprouts with bright green bark, they may be induced to 

 grow by cutting back the branches and thus stimulating some of the 



