shown in PL I, fig. 1, and an ordinary copying camera, shown in 

 PL I, fig. 2, and several lenses complete the outfit. Instead of a 

 simple copying camera, I would get an enlarging and reducing cam- 

 era, with attachments for making lantern slides direct from large 

 negatives. It costs at least $150 to properly equip an entomologist's 

 studio for photographing insects. Our present outfit at the Cornell 

 insectary has cost over $300, and nearly every division of the experi- 

 ment station is also well supplied with cameras. 



Nine-tenths of my insect photographs are taken with a large copying 

 camera and an old 6|- "by 8^ rapid rectilinear lens, bought in 1888. 

 For making considerable enlargements with this camera a 3^ by 4j 

 lens that has a large diaphragm opening (which is indispensable in 

 focusing) is the best I have yet used. I increase the bellows length, 

 and thus the enlarging power of the copying camera, with a wooden 

 hood, shown at a in PL II. One of the new photomicrographic 

 objectives has just been purchased for enlarging minute objects. 

 They are better for this work than ordinary microscopic objectives. 

 We have different lens boards, so that all of our lenses can be used 

 on the upright photo-micro camera, and it is often easier to photo- 

 graph insects in a horizontal plane than to arrange them in a vertical 

 plane for the copying camera. 



On my trips throughout the State investigating insect outbreaks I 

 usually take the field camera and rarely return without some inter- 

 esting and valuable picture of an insect, its work, or methods of 

 fighting it. I have even secured good flash-light pictures in an orchard 

 at night of canker-worm moths crawling up the trunks of the trees. 



THE WORKSHOP. 



In photographing insects I want all the light possible to bring out 

 the details, and so I work on the middle bench in the insectaiy green- 

 house, where the light streams in from all sides. Usually I shut off 

 the direct sun's rays from the object by putting a piece of paper near 

 the roof, and thus I avoid practically all shadows. Sometimes shadows 

 add an artistic touch to the picture, but more often the3 T obscure or 

 darken something more important. I have never tried lighting up 

 an object with mirrors. 



WHEN TO PHOTOGRAPH. 



I often drop everything else to get a picture of an insect which is 

 then in a certain stage or position that it may not assume again in a 

 year. Choose bright days if possible. I have made some good pic- 

 tures of insects by long exposures on dark or cloudy days, but I am 

 satisfied that better results are obtained with shorter exposures on 

 bright days. 



