STRAWBERRIES 25 
more than a fifth part of old mushroom bed manure or 
similar material, adding a large 60-sized potful of bone 
meal, soot and wood ashes to each bushel. “Thoroughly 
mix together and arrange that the compost is moist 
without being at all wet or pasty. The best sized pot 
is the 6-inch or 32-size, for though the large 48 or 
5-inch pot is suitable for batches that are to be started 
early in the winter, I prefer the larger size all through. 
The pots must be clean and well drained, that is, one 
large crock (concave side down) must well cover the hole 
and over it must be placed smaller potsherds until there 
is about an inch of drainage material. Over the drainage 
sprinkle a few crushed bones and then add a little of the 
roughest of the compost, making it firm; the young 
strawberry plant is then inserted keeping it in the centre 
and placing sufficient soil beneath its roots to bring 
its crown three-quarters of an inch below the pot 
rim. Proceed with the potting, adding the soil regularly 
all round the ball of roots and ramming it firm with a 
blunt pointed hard-wood stick. When the work is 
finished there should be ample space for affording water, 
and while the roots are well covered no part of the 
crown or leaf stems must be buried. 
To some the work of potting may seem rather com- 
plicated, but it really is not so, and when reasonable 
preparations are made it is surprising what a large 
number of plants can be potted in a few days. One 
other point must not be forgotten, and that is to water 
the young plants a few hours before potting, for if the 
ball of roots be dry when potted the probabilities are 
against its ever becoming properly moistened; while, if 
too wet, it is not pleasant to handle, and the soil 
next it becomes pasty, and, in the case of clayey loam, 
will form a sort of basin round the roots. The evils of 
either practice are obvious. | 
After potting, stand the plants on a hard ash base in 
