26 STRAWBERRIES 
an open position, and give water as necessary. Some 
protection from direct sunshine is desirable for the 
roots, and this may be provided by partial plunging in 
ashes, or by standing boards edgeways against each row 
of pots. Keep each variety separate, labelling the 
corner plants in each batch. 
Subsequent summer treatment consists in keeping the 
plants clean, well supplied with moisture and free from 
weeds and runners. Clear and weak soot water, given 
occasionally after the plants are well established, will 
assist in the formation of good crowns and keep the 
foliage a good colour. Sprinkling overhead through a 
fine rose, during evening, after hot days, will pro- 
mote robust health. One other point to be observed is 
that only one crown per plant should be allowed, and 
consequently, when secondary crowns commence to 
form, as they will do in a greater or less degree during 
the early part of September, they must be removed, but 
in such a manner that no injury is done to the central 
crown or to the bases of the leaf stalks. 
In due rotation the next point to be considered is that 
of housing and wintering. Early batches ought to be 
placed in shallow frames in October, plunging the pots 
in leaves, and allowing sufficient head room for the 
plants. Only during wet or very severe weather should 
the lights remain on the frames, and even then some air 
must be admitted. The frames should be in a light 
position, otherwise thorough ripening of the crowns 
will not follow. Batches for later forcing should be 
plunged up to the rims of the pots in ashes, selecting an 
‘open and well-drained site; the middle of November 
will be early enough for this work in most cases, but 
whether it had better be done earlier or later must be | 
governed by the climate of the district. “The aim is to 
protect both pots and roots from hard frosts. Handy 
to the strawberries plunged outside there should be a 
