STRAWBERRIES ie 
shed containing dry litter or bracken for laying over the 
plants when there are sharp frosts, but it must not 
remain in position longer than is absolutely necessary. 
As the plants in the frames are passed on into the 
houses, their places may well be filled from those out 
of doors. 
Just before the forcing process commences it is a good 
plan, and one generally followed in private establish- 
ments, to give the plants a little special attention in 
the way of cleaning and top-dressing. Remove the 
surface soil with the aid of a label, and pull away any 
decayed leaves; then wash the pots clean, and, if 
thought necessary, dip the foliage in a mixture of liver 
of sulphur (1 oz.) and water (2 gals.). “Top dress with 
a somewhat finer and richer compost than that used for 
potting, previously making sure that the drainage is 
clear and that there are no worms among the roots. 
The first stage of forcing is the introduction of a batch 
into a temperature of 45° to 50°, allowing a fall to 40° or 
45° at night. Select a light position such as a shelf in a 
lean-to house facing south or south-east, and do not 
raise the temperature for a fortnight or three weeks 
unless there are special reasons for so doing, as in straw- 
berry forcing one’s motto ought to be ‘“ Make haste 
slowly.” Gradually increase the temperature 5° more 
by day and night, even permitting a I0° rise on bright 
days, admitting a little air when the flowers commence 
to open, but in such a manner that the strawberries are 
not subjected to cold draughts or to sudden fluctuations 
of temperature. 
This stage is a very critical one, for in it all the 
previous work may be undone, while if safely passed it 
is comparatively easy to bring a crop to perfection. A 
close, moist atmosphere, such as is technically known as 
a ‘‘ stagnant” or ‘‘ stuffy ” one, must be avoided, as also 
must excessive firing, for these cause blackened stamens 
