30 STRAWBERRIES 
ditions for starting, flowering, swelling, and ripening, 
there will be no difficulty, in the majority of establish- 
ments, in adapting one’s resources to the end in view. 
Grand crops are annually grown on the shelves in peach- 
houses, early vineries, cucumber and melon pits, fig- 
houses, orchard-houses, etc. 
SECOND Crops FROM ForCcED PLANTS 
The fact that the same strawberry plants may, by 
careful management, be induced to yield two crops of 
fruit in one year, is good evidence of their vitality 
and good nature. ‘The method is as follows :—After 
strawberries have been forced and the crop gathered, 
thoroughly cleanse them and proceed by a gradual pro- 
cess to harden them, so that eventually they may be 
stood in cold frames, and later on out of doors alto- 
gether. From eight to ten weeks after gathering the 
crop, these forced plants must be repotted, removing a 
considerable portion of old roots and soil, and returning 
them to similar sized pots to those which they have pre- 
viously occupied. Use a generous compost, and pot 
firmly, returning the plants to frames or standing them 
in the open according to the season. The earliest 
batches need not be potted, for if planted out somewhat 
close together in June, they will give most useful crops 
of fruit during August and September ; but later batches 
are best potted at the end of June, in July, and early 
August. Subsequent treatment must be liberal, and 
cold frames and cool houses will have to be requisitioned 
for housing the plants and ripening the fruits. Those 
placed in frames in September, and promoted to warmer 
quarters in October, should fruit in November, while 
those housed in October will with a little care carry the 
strawberry season well on into January. Crops from 
these latest batches will not be large, but then an abund- 
