58 RASPBERRIES 
best plan to cut them back to within six inches of the 
ground in autumn, as by this means a couple of good 
canes will be secured for fruiting the third year. 
Make a rigid selection of the seedlings at fruiting 
_ time, retaining only those that are very promising for 
further trial. There is room for more first-class rasp- 
berries, and some attention might well be paid to the 
improvement of white or yellow varieties for dessert, 
but there is already too much mediocrity among both 
red and yellow forms. 
TRAINING 
There are several modes of raspberry training 
practised, but gardeners now mostly adopt the wire 
trellis system, as by it the canes are kept from damage 
by storms, they can be left at such a length as to give 
the grower the maximum crop, and the fruit is kept 
clean, and it is readily gathered. Light and air also have 
full play on raspberries so trained. 
Such a trellis is easily made of stout galvanised wire 
strained to stout wood (ash or larch) or iron posts firmly 
fixed at each end of the row, with lighter posts at 
intervals between these, if the row is a long one. The 
lowest wire should be strained two feet from the ground, 
and others added above according to the height of the 
variety under the conditions. prevailing—for example, I 
have seen Superlative filling trellises over six feet high 
in a favoured Scottish garden. 
An old-fashioned method is to plant the canes in 
threes, each cane forming the point of a triangle. 
Between them a stout ash or larch stake, painted or 
creosoted at the base, is thrust, and to it the canes are 
tied loosely, so as to make a kind of bundle. This tri- 
angular system of planting is freely adopted by market- 
growers, the large stools thus formed extending in long 
