BLACKBERRIES a7 
PRUNING AND TRAINING 
These go hand in hand; but, to secure a good 
foundation, cut young plants to the ground-line when 
planting. By the following midsummer several good 
growths will have been made, and of these not more 
than two per plant must be retained, cutting out the 
rest. In autumn, shorten those left to four feet, 
except in the case of the cut-leaved or parsley-leaved 
bramble, which may be left at six feet, or much more, if 
strong. More growths may be left the next season, 
but four to each stool is generally ample to cover the 
trellis, and there is no advantage in overcrowding. 
Immediately after fruiting, cut out the canes that have 
borne fruit, shorten back the retained new ones to five 
feet or six feet, and prune the lateral growths back to 
plump buds. ‘Tie the canes firmly to the trellis, so 
that late autumn gales may not damage them. 
Quite a different method is followed to secure large 
blackberry bushes, for the plants are cut right down 
after the first year’s growth as well as at planting. 
Three of the best canes formed the following season 
are selected, and the tips removed when about three feet 
high, allowing another foot extension for very strong 
varieties. Remove all surplus canes. Shorten in 
lateral growths to one foot, and then, in the third year 
from planting, a fine crop of fruit will result. In subse- 
quent seasons more canes may be left, provided over- 
crowding is avoided and the ground well manured. 
MANURING 
Heavy autumn dressings of decomposed farmyard 
manure spread on the soil will generally suffice in the 
way of manurial assistance, and, failing this, much may 
