CHAPTER IV". 



LAPLAND. 



As we are now in Lapland, before I touch, upon 

 the natural history of the country, I will make a 

 few remarks on life in Lapland in general. 



When I set off for my Lap trip, I had made 

 my mind up to two things — the first was that we 

 should have to "rough it," and live upon bark 

 bread and reindeer cheese ; the other, that our 

 living would cost next to nothing, and that one 

 rixdaler would go further in these wild regions 

 than two in Wermland. In both these surmises I 

 was egregiously mistaken. Nowhere in Sweden 

 have I found better quarters than with the priest 

 at Quickiock (in fact, all things were far too fine 

 for a collector, whose room can never be kept 

 clean) ; but nowhere, except in towns, have I 

 found living dearer, or paid so much for a day's 

 wages to men whom I had to help me. 3s. per 

 day was the wages I paid to men up here to do 

 the same work as the Wermland peasant will for 

 Is. Is. 8d. a day for board and lodging does not 

 seem much to an Englishman — nor is it ; but I 



