LAPLAND. 77 



gamekeeper's old leather gaiter; and when the 

 river opened we tasted nothing but fish until the 

 young ducks came in. Fresh meat — such as beef 

 or mutton — we never saw. It is true the fish 

 were of the best kind — trout, charr, and gwynniad ; 

 and, doubtless, a London alderman would vote 

 such a bill of fare as " none so bad ;" but, toujours 

 perdrix. Moreover, everything was plain boiled, 

 and we scarcely ever got a vegetable. A good 

 cook might have made something out of such 

 materials ; but condiments of all kinds, save salt, 

 were wanting ; and I should strongly recommend 

 every English traveller who visits these remote 

 regions to bring up with him a little Cayenne 

 pepper and a bottle of "Burgess's Original; 5 ' 

 and, above all, if he be a smoker, to provide him- 

 self with some real cavendish before leaving Eng- 

 land, for, of all the bad tobacco which I ever 

 smoked, that which we procured at Quickiock was 

 the worst — in fact, the Swedish tobacco in general, 

 although cheap, is not good ; for you must put up 

 either with a sort of stuff which has no real tobacco 

 flavour, but smokes like chopped hay, or with a 

 strong, rank, roll tobacco, such as the peasants 

 chew and smoke. We had plenty of good coffee 

 (with excellent milk and cream) ; and this and 

 cold water — certainly the clearest and purest I 

 ever drank in my life — formed our " every- day 



