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Figure 2.—Suggested arrangement for a half-acre fruit garden. Rows A and 
B—Nos. 1 to 5, apples; No. 6, sweet cherry. Row C—Nos. 1 to 5, pears; Nos. 
6 to 8, sweet cherries. Row D—Nos. 1 to 9, plums; Nos. 10 and 11, sour 
cherries. Row EH—red raspberries (2 varieties). Rows F to H—strawberries 
(3 varieties). Row J—grapes (trained on a wire trellis or on a fence used as a 
trellis). The fruit trees should be placed on the north side, if possible, to avoid 
shading of the small fruits. 
and grapes at the same depth as they grew in the nursery and fruit 
and nut trees slightly deeper. Spread out the roots when setting the 
trees or plants. Separate the topsoil and subsoil when digging the 
holes. Place the topsoil about the roots, and fill up the hole with the 
subsoil. Thoroughly firm the soil about the roots to prevent drying 
out and to help hold the tree in position. 
Pruning Brerorr Pirantine.—Pick off all fully developed leaves 
before planting strawberries. Cut back blackberry and raspberry 
canes to 6 inches. Grapevines are usually cut back to one or two buds. 
If fruit trees are unbranched whips, head them back to a height of 3 
to 3% feet. If they have several good-sized branches well spaced along 
the trunk, three or four may be left. The branches should be spaced 
about a foot apart up and down the trunk and should point in different 
directions. 
Cuttivation.—The cultivation of the home fruit garden is similar 
to that of the vegetable garden for the first part of the season. After 
about September 1 cultivation of fruit trees, vines, and bushes should 
cease. Cultivate strawberries until the end of the growing season. 
Under most conditions the same methods of maintaining the fertility 
of the soil that are followed in a vegetable garden are successful with 
fruit. Where stable manure is available, its liberal use generally gives 
excellent results. 
All berry plants should be given clean cultivation unless there is an 
abundance of straw or other material to furnish a permanent mulch. 
