67 



With the cothurnus, and sandal -of the ancients, and the boot of the 

 moderns, the perfection of pedal inventions, the mocasin admits of no 

 unfavorable comparison. It deserves to be classed among the highest 

 articles of apparel ever invented, both in usefulnes, durability and 

 beauty. 



The moccasin is made of one piece of deerskin. It is seamed up at 

 the heel, and also in front, above the foot, leaving the bottom of the moc- 

 casin without a seam. In front the deerskin is gathered, in place of 

 being crimped ; over this part porcupine quills or beads are worked 

 in various patterns. The plain moccasin rises several inches above 

 the ankle, like the Roman cothurnus, and is fastened above the ankle 

 with deer strings ; but usually this part is turned down, so as to expose 

 a part of the instep, and is ormamented with bead work, as represented 

 in the plate. A small bone near the ankle joint of the deer, has fur- 

 nished the moccasin needle from time immemorial; and the sinews of 

 the animal, the thread. These bone needles are found in the mounds 

 of the West, and beside the skeletons of the Iroquois, where they were 

 deposited with religious care. This isolated fact would seem to indi- 

 cate an affinity, in one art at least, between the Iroquois and the mound 

 builders, whose name, and era of occupation and destiny, are entirely 

 lost. 



In ancient times the Iroquois used another shoe, made of the skin of 

 the elk. They cut the skin above and below the gambrel joint, and 

 then took it off entire. As the hind leg of the elk inclines at this joint 

 nearly at a right angle, it was naturally adapted to the foot. The lower 

 end was sewed firmly with sinew, and the upper part secured above 

 the ankle with deer strings. —^"" 



In connection with this subject is the art of tanning deer skins, as 

 they still tan them after the ancient method. It is done with the brain 

 of the deer, the tanning properties of which, according to a tradition, 

 were discovered by accident. The brain is mingled with moss, to 

 make it adhere sufficiently to be formed into a cake, after which it is 

 hung up by the fire to dry. It is thus preserved for years. When the 

 deerskin is fresh, the hair, and also the grain of the skin are taken off, 

 over a cylindrical beam, with a wooden blade or stone scraper. A solu- 

 tion is then made by boiling a cake of the brain in water, and the moss, 

 which is of no use, being removed, the skin is soaked a few hours in 

 the solution. It is then wrung out and stretched, until it becomes dry 

 and pliable. Should it be a thick one, it would be necessary to repeat 

 the process until it becomes thoroughly penetrated by the solution. The 



