88 



keeper and interpreter of these strings ; and to this day, the Onondaga 

 sachem who holds this title performs this duty. 



A silver cross is also attached to this necklace. The Indian women 

 wear a profusion of silver ornaments, and among them the cross is fre- 

 quently conspicuous. 



In their costumes for the war dance, the Iroquois indulged their taste 

 for finery and ornament to its fullest extent. Some of them would ex- 

 cite admiration by the exactness of their finish and adjustment, the 

 neatness of the materials, and the striking appearance of the whole, 

 as seen in the graceful movements of the dance. They are diversified 

 in their materials and ornaments, but yet consist of the same articles 

 of apparel. tTwo costumes are furnished. One is that of a warrior, 

 and was designed for the dance. The other is the ordinary dress of 

 the Indian female. If the fabrics of which they are composed were of 

 their own manufacture exclusively, it would" add much to their interest ; 

 but since the intercourse of the Iroquois commenced with the whites, 

 they have laid aside their deerskin apparel, and substituted materials, 

 in fact, of our own manufacture. Since we have known them, how- 

 ever, their costumes have been of this description. No change has been 

 made of the articles of apparel themselves, but the deerskin has been 

 laid aside for the broadcloth, the bearskin blanket for the woollen, and 

 the porcupine quill for the bead. 



Much taste is exhibited in the bead work, which is so conspicuous in 

 the female costume. The colors are blended harmoniously, and the 

 patterns are ingeniously devised and skilfully executed. It sufficiently 

 appears, from the furnished specimens of their handiwork, that the 

 Indian female can be taught to excel with the needle. It remains to 

 notice briefly the several articles of apparel, of which these costumes 

 are composed ; and first, of the female. 



Ah-ta-qua-o-weh, or Moccasin. 

 This has been sufficiently described elsewhere in this report. 



Gise-ha, or Pantalette. Plate 4. 



The Gise-ha is usually made of red broadcloth, and ornamented with 

 a border of bead work around the lower edge, and also up the side. It 

 is secured above the knee, and falls down upon the moccasin. The one 

 furnished is beautifully made, and a fine specimen of bead work. 



