204 HIVES - 



make plain wooden ones as he desires. Perhaps the best way is for 

 each beginner, if unable to make his own hives and boxes, to get such 

 good hives as are manufactured most convenient to him, and at the 

 best rates from good lumber. 



We recommend simple stands made of a bottom board the width of 

 the hive and four or five inches longer for an alighting board. This 

 should be nailed to 2x4 inch strips so as to place the hives near the 

 ground. The hive should be hinged on the back end of this, to be 

 raised for cleaning off the bottom board. The frames should hang on 

 metal stips one-fourth of an inch above the edge of the rabbits to pre 

 vent killing bees when handling them, and also to prevent the ends of 

 the frames from being glued down too tightly with propolis. The alight- 

 ing board should slant from the front, that overladen bees may craw 1 

 in when blown down by the wind. 



We recommend that the cap be of the same frame dimensions as the 

 body of the hive so as to be used as a double hive — with two tiers of 

 frames for extracting if desired. The top should be one solid board 

 with good cleats underneath, or if made of two pieces the boards should 

 be well seasoned and tongued and groved and glued to prevent leaking. 



Formerly honey boards were used above the frames to hold surplus 

 boxes, but they are difficult to make and not so convenient as quilts. 

 These should be made from a simple sheet of ducking or other firm 

 material in which the bees will not gnaw holes. They should be a little 

 larger than the space to be covered, so as to tuck down well and cover 

 the bees, and the cloth be well shrunk before making, lest they become 

 too small after using for a time. They should be hemmed and in the 

 centre of each a small hole for feeding, covered with a flap, which is 

 raised only when needed. Honey boxes may be set directly on the tops 

 of the frames, or better upon strips resting on the frames, and the quilt 



