120 AUSTRALASIAN 
and mark with same gauge in from the edges for rabbet E, and 
also run the gauge down the ends of the boards from the planed 
sides to mark for rabbet c (Fig. 39). Before shifting the gauge, 
the rabbets on the side pieces can be marked. The rabbets D 
and E (Fig. 41) are marked exactly the same as the rabbets D 
and E in Fig. 39. We have now the rabbets D, E, and the edge 
of c marked. The gauge will then require to be set at seven- 
eighths of an inch to mark in from the ends of the end pieces 
on the inside for rabbet c, Fig. 39, and also down from the top 
edges for rabbet B, Fig. 39. All that is wanted now Is to reset 
the gauge to a quarter of an inch, and mark on top edges from 
the inside for rabbet B, Fig. 39. 
64 
Be 
A 
Z 
Z 
BS 
g 
ANY! 
ANY 
IS 
Fig, 41,_SIDE OF HIVE (INSIDE VIEW). 
The rabbets, being all marked, will require cutting out. 
The best tool for this purpose I have ever used was an iron 
plough (American). With this tool, fitted with a 2-iron and 
set to a 2-gauge, it will scarcely require the marking gauge to 
be used. By cutting out the rabbets D and E (Fig. 39) first, 
some little labour will be saved when cutting c. If a saw cut 
is put in across the latter it will expedite the cutting. For 
c and B a {-iron will be required, with the gauge of the plough 
set to the proper depth. After the rabbets are cut, strips of 
tin, [}in. wide by 14in. long, should be folded in the centre to 
form the metal supports a (Fig. 39). These are tacked on, as 
shown, so as to allow the upper edges to project above the 
lower part of rabbets about one-eighth of an inch. Metal 
supports, or, as they are commonly but incorrectly termed, “tin 
rabbets,” are for supporting the frames, the projecting oma of 
