552 



SCIENCE 



[Vol. IV., No. 98. 



is in the mountains, one day's portage from the 

 Nunatok, or some of its branches. Here three 

 nearly equal waterways presented themselves, of 

 which the middle one was chosen. The strength 

 of the current made progress very difficult, and there 

 were numerous bars. The right bank was high and 

 rolling to the water side, where it formed a beach of 

 variously colored limestone pebbles. Large masses 

 of metam orphic rock cropped out among the dense 

 growth of forest which lined the shore. On the left 

 bank the land was low, being an island some ten 

 miles long, whose upper end was reached about six 

 p.m. On the following morning the river widened, 

 the current became less, and the stream less crooked, 

 and it was apparent that the party had passed the 

 region of the mountains through which the river 

 cuts its way. These mountains beyond the right 

 bank rise over three thousand feet, heavily timbered 

 at their bases, and trend nearly as the river runs. 

 In the afternoon a large coal-vein was discovered in a 

 bluff on the river-bank, and was extremely welcome 

 for use in the steam-launch, though that on the sur- 

 face had been weathered so as to partly impair its 

 good quality. 



This and the following day were rainy : so no 

 observation could be had. The thermometer stood 

 at about 90° F. At half-past six a deserted village 

 was reached. The width of the river was from five 

 hundred to nine hundred yards, and the depth of 

 the channel from twelve to thirty feet. The follow- 

 ing day another deposit of coal in a stratum of fine 

 white clay suitable for pottery was found. This coal, 

 however, did not burn well, probably on account 

 of the admixture of clay. Later in the day the first 

 rapids were reached, and passed with some diffi- 

 culty; and in the evening the party halted at a fish- 

 ing-village, where the natives, who were very honest 

 and friendly, were preparing their nets for the ex- 

 pected run of salmon. As progress was made, the 

 current became extremely strong, numerous rocks 

 were found to exist alongshore, and it required much 

 care to keep the launch from being thrown upon them 

 by the force of the stream. Several villages and fish- 

 ing-stations were passed, and small ripples or rapids 

 became more numerous, so that the lighter boats 

 easily outstripped the launch. On the 21st, having 

 nearly reached the Jade Mountain, it was deter- 

 mined to divide the party, let the engineer and 

 miner explore in the vicinity, while the launch was 

 taken to a convenient spot for laying her up by 

 Lieut. Cantwell, who would then rejoin them. The 

 launch was left at a fishing-village, whose inhabitants 

 informed them that the channel of the river above 

 soon became obstructed by rocks, and ran in a sort 

 of cafion, so that the natives do not attempt to navi- 

 gate it. It divides into two branches, one of which 

 takes its rise in a large lake (supposed to be twenty- 

 five miles long), while the other rises farther to the 

 eastward, near the head waters of the Koyukuk Kiver, 

 which enters the Yukon just above Nulato. The 

 natives use birch canoes in this region. The river 

 rose one foot during the night of the 22d; and the 

 Innuit stated that the water was very high, but later. 



with dry weather, w r ould fall, so that all the river- 

 bed would be dry except the channel. Lieut. Cant- 

 well, after repairing the furnace of the launch with 

 the native fire-clay, left her to rejoin McLenegan and 

 Miller with a party of Innuit. They were reached 

 on the 24th,* much exhausted by their trip, their 

 boots worn out, pestered to an incredible degree by 

 mosquitoes, but bringing some of the native jade 

 and other minerals. They were sent to recuperate 

 at the station where the launch had been left, while 

 the others pushed on, and at noon reached a part of 

 the river where it takes a sudden bend to the south- 

 east, the country being low and rolling, backed by 

 mountains on both sides. The Jade Mountain could 

 be readily distinguished from the other peaks by its 

 greenish color. The depth of water did not dimin- 

 ish. At half-past four p.m. a remarkable clay bluff, 

 three-quarters of a mile long and a hundred and 

 fifty feet high, was reached on the left bank of the 

 river. Quantities of mammoth tusks were observed 

 in this clay and its debris where undermined by the 

 stream. The river now becomes very tortuous, with 

 many islands, and tundra extending to the moun- 

 tains. The soil is clayey, with a thick layer of black 

 mould. In winter the natives, who at this time were 

 fishing on the lower Kowak, ascend to the region of 

 its head waters, and travel to trade with the Yukon 

 Indians, via the Koyukuk Eiver, or go still farther 

 to the north-east to the range of the high Yukon 

 Mountains, where moose and mountain sheep are 

 found in great numbers. It was reported that on a 

 clear day the sea (or a large lake) could be seen from 

 these mountains in one direction. On the other 

 side of the Yukon range is a river (doubtless the 

 Colville) by which the sea can be reached in five 

 days. On the 26th of July a point was reached where 

 the river divides into two parts, the south-eastern of 

 which was followed, on account of its more direct 

 course, to a point where the Umakalukta River 

 comes in from the southward. This was narrow and 

 crooked, soon diminishing to a mere torrent. Trees 

 two feet in diameter, and very rank shrubbery, were 

 observed on its banks. It was ascended to a village 

 about twenty miles above its mouth, where the ex- 

 plorers were kindly welcomed by the inhabitants, 

 some of whom had never seen a white man before. 

 Boats could not be obtained here to replace the 

 water-soaked skin-boat of the party ; but they were 

 told that they could from this place make a portage 

 across to the Kowak, which they would reach from 

 twenty-five to thirty miles above the point where the 

 Umakalukta joins it. This was determined upon, 

 and the party camped at the village, enjoying some 

 delicious fresh salmon. 



The following day the portage was made over a hill 

 to a small lake, then over tundra to a large lake which 

 took four hours to cross, and then through a swamp 

 to the Kowak again. For reasons connected with 

 the supply of provisions and the worn state of the 

 skin boat upon which the party depended for trans- 

 portation, it was decided to return to the launch. It 

 was supposed that there were, by native reckoning, 

 about twelve days' farther navigation to the falls, 



