INTERIOR OF A CHIEF'S HUT. 11 



wray, whose services as a guide I freely accepted, 

 in consequence of his previous acquaintance with the 

 country and its tribes. Our journey being under- 

 taken on horseback, we forded the river without 

 having occasion to exert a similar agility to that 

 which had contributed to our amusement on [the 

 preceding evening in the persons of the Caffers ; 

 and after passing through several villages, we ar- 

 rived late in the day at the kraal of Botuman. 

 Our entrance into the valley in which it was situated 

 was speedily announced by the barking of numerous 

 dogs, which are always essential appendages of a 

 Caffer establishment. The good-humoured old chief 

 met us instantly on our arrival, and invited us most 

 cordially into his hut, where a blazing fire, while it 

 gave token of cheerfulness, cast a lurid glare on the 

 strange countenances of its inmates. There being 

 no opening for the smoke to escape except by the 

 door-way, which did not reach more than three feet 

 from the ground, the sensation was extremely un- 

 pleasant, although no inconvenience whatever ap- 

 peared to be felt by the natives themselves. 



The Chief took his seat on the ground among his 

 retainers without distinction, and some of his wives 

 coming in shortly afterwards, reclined themselves by 

 his side. Botuman eagerly inquired what news I had 

 brought from the Great Chief, meaning the Governor 

 of the Cape, and when he would visit his kraal, being 

 more particularly anxious to learn when the Caffers 



