OF THE RIVER SETLEJ. 361 



opposite side of the glen. The names of these hamlets are, Gramang, Kar- 

 jang, Shabeng, Korba, Thuaring, and Kwakba. We passed through Shabeng, 

 along the edge of a small canal aqueduct pleasantly shaded by poplars, the 

 vicinage adorned with luxuriant vineyards, here and there a neat hut peep- 

 ing out from the freshness of the cool shade, rendered doubly grateful to us 

 from the heat and dust we had endured in a twelve-mile stage occupying us 

 from nine o'clock till sunset. The appearance of this place, green and luxu- 

 riant, contrasted well with the surrounding barrenness: below rolled pla- 

 cidly the deep waters of the Setlej ; a castle situated on an insulated rock 

 overlooked them, while the lofty peaks of the Raldang cluster clothed in 

 snows crowned the whole, and finished a picture peculiar in itself, and deriv- 

 ing additional interest from the unexpected manner in which it stood forth 

 embodied to our eye. 



We encamped in Karjang, and immediately received a visit from the 

 Zemindars, including the Lama with his attendants. This was the first vil- 

 lage where we found the Tartar language and superstitions prevail. Hither- 

 to we had been accustomed to brahmins, (of a degenerate race, no doubt,) 

 but still Hindus, but here we had the worship of Budh fairly established. 

 The Lama who resides here is considered the head of that sect; he was an 

 intelligent man, and spoke Hindustani tolerably well. He shewed us some 

 books, in which we recognized the printed or stamped character of the 

 Thibetians, but we regretted we had so little time (having arrived late) to 

 examine them more minutely, and obtain some information relative to their 

 religious opinions and ceremonies. He admitted that the snowy peaks were 

 objects of great reverence; in fact he seemed to believe in a genius of the 

 Himalaya whom he considered as entitled to worship. He called those 

 peaks Kailas that rise immediately from the village, and which constitute 

 the Raldang cluster, (visible from Saharanpur.) They are on the left bank 

 of the river, and are of great elevation; I consider them to denote, in this 

 quarter, the position and direction of the chain, one of them, Raldang, is a 



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