37^ COURSE AND LEVELS i 



was no motion of the feet, but merely the body was allowed to sway about, 

 first from right to left, and then back from left to right. This was however 

 pronounced by the munslii, to be a very tame exhibition to that in which 

 both men and women joined ; but as we had no opportunity of witnessing 

 this kind of dance, our account of it would be but imperfect. On this and 

 other occasions, we noticed the Tartar women to be much fairer than any 

 we had before seen. They had also rosy complexions that might emulate 

 those of Europe, and their countenances, though possessing ail the pecu- 

 liar features of that race, yet exhibited a variety of character and expression 

 which is not to be seen in Hindustan. The women of the lower mountains 

 possess it also, but in a less degree, no doubt owing to the mixture of Tar- 

 tar blood. 



From Namja, our next stage was Shipki, which we feared would be the 

 limit to our travels in this quarter, although at Dabling and at Namja we 

 were strongly assured that orders had been received to conduct us to Garu. 

 The road to Shipki was tolerably good, with the exception of one very steep 

 and deep descent through a narrow defile, huge rocks, like buttresses or tow- 

 ers, overhanging the path. It is called Lakongma, and is immediately above 

 a stream called Hupsang Tukbo, where travellers generally halt for refresh- 

 ment; beyond this the ascent is severe, and continued as far as Shipki La, 

 the highest part of the route. Here we had a view up the valley of the 

 Setlej (which suddenly widens) for fifteen or twenty miles, the course from 

 the eastward. No sharp granite peaks were to be seen in that direction, 

 but bare round clay slate mountains, with here and there a slight trace of 

 snow ; no forest in any direction. From this point, the most northern the 

 Setlej attains, the river bends off on each side. To the north on the right 

 bank rises up a cluster of snowy peaks, the highest of which is called Purk- 

 yul ; its elevation must be upwards of 21,000 feet. The descent to the vil- 

 lage is easy; the whole distance from Namja is nine miles. 



On our arrival, we found the people assembled to receive us 5 they formed 



