OF THE RIVER SETLEJ. 401 



ascents or descents of any moment. Half-way the Kandlu nullah is crossed, 

 a picturesque spot where we stopped to breakfast ; thence is a steep ascent 

 to Manoutt Danda, a ridge which is reckoned the boundary of Kanawer; 

 here the aspect of the river valley changes in a remarkable manner. The 

 left bank having scarcely any declivity but spreading out in a nearly level 

 expanse for at least two miles down to the water's edge. The whole of 

 the mountain side is well cultivated and at this time presented the golden 

 picture of a plentiful harvest. The hamlets are numerous too, though small, 

 and the appearance of the country upon the whole is highly pleasing. Se- 

 ran is the summer residence of the Raja of Bissahir who removes here to 

 avoid the heats of Rampur which is in the bed of the river. It is inhabit- 

 ed chiefly by Banias and people about the Raja's person, and is on the 

 whole rather a neat looking place. The Raja's residence is rather well 

 finished and set off with various gilt ornaments ; there is also an old Hindu, 

 temple of rather a good style of architecture. 



Thermometer 35° 3'. Hoar frost. From Seran we proceeded to Gauri Kot 

 half-way to Rampur, a march of 123 miles; we had made these long 

 marches purposely to arrive in time for the Rampur fair which began this 

 day. The road upon the whole is tolerable and the general appearance of 

 the river valley a good deal as yesterday. We breakfasted at Muzulia 

 which was half-way, and though we made no delay did not arrive at Gauri 

 Kot till after sunset. 



Thermometer 44°. A little distance from Gauri Kot occurs a bad place 

 in the road, which on account of its extreme steepness and the slippery na- 

 ture of the soil (Mica) is rather dangerous. The path then leads along the 

 mountain face, and afterwards descends to Muteli, a small village situated 

 jn a retired glen: a little beyond this occurs a most steep and continued 

 descent of two miles and three quarters, very rugged and very fatiguing. 

 The rest of the path is nearly level, leading along the river bank latterly. 



