19 



Usually the leaves begin to curl at the ends by the time one hundred and 

 ten is reached, which makes it unnecessary to stop at this point. 



This table is simple, and as reliable as any that can be given. There are 

 cases when crops are not in ordinary condition; then no table can be followed 

 successfully. If you see the face side of the leaves turning a reddish-brown 

 color, the heat must be increased a little; while, on the other hand, if they 

 begin to show reddish spots near the edges and on both sides, you have too 

 much heat. While advancing from one hundred and twenty to one hundred 

 and thirty (in curing the leaf) care must be taken that you do not lower the 

 temperature below the highest point reached. Never go above one hundred 

 and eighty degrees, unless you desire to scorch your tobacco; which, some 

 claim, improves the flavor, though it injures the color. In curing with char- 

 coal, a barn 16 by 16 will require nine fires; one 18 by 18, twelve fires, and one 

 20 by 20, sixteen fires, so arranged as to distribute the heat evenly. If the wind 

 should blow heavily against one side of the barn, raise the fires on that side a 

 little above the others, and thus partially counteract its effect. 



After curing, close the barn tightly in order to keep the tobacco dry. 



CURING SHIPPING TOBACCO. 



Let it remain in the barn or on the scaffold for three or four days, or until 

 it begins to yellow ; then make slow fires of logs, so arranged as to blaze but 

 little. Care should be taken that the tobacco does not sweat from too much 

 heat ; but if it should, proceed as with bright wrappers. 



"Houseburn" is rot, caused by heating the tobacco by overcrowding. 



If it should heat before firing, start the fires at once. After the leaves are 

 well dried, increase the heat until the stems are cured, providing you do not 

 go above a temperature of one hundred and seventy-five degrees in so doing. 

 The dark, heavy shipping tobacco is cured by firing immediately after it is 

 housed. 



SUN-CURING. 



This requires an abundance of scaffolds and well-ventilated houses. The 

 latter can be made of any desired length, but only as wide as will give free 

 ventilation. The scaffold should be on the side giving most shelter from the 

 winds, while it secures the full heat of the sun ; and near the house, that the 

 tobacco may be readily transferred from one to the other. The best results 

 are obtained when the temperature is from sixty-five to seventy-five degrees, 

 with a certain degree of moisture in the atmosphere. When the tobacco is in 

 the scaffolds, protect it from the winds. If you liave a very hot, dry day, which 

 will cure it too rapidly to produce the desired color, close up the hangers on 

 the scaffold, and it will have a tendency to "slow" the process. Four or five 



