YOUR SUCCESS DEPENDS ON PROPER PLANTING 



87 



SUCCESSFUL PLANTING, PRUNING, CARE 



Be sure to remove label before tree begins to 

 grow or it will be fatally injured through strangu- 

 lation. 



In presenting these instructions to our patrons, 

 we would earnestly request that they give the most 

 careful attention to the details. They have been 

 compiled with a view of making them as simple as 

 possible. Having fulfilled our part of the contract 

 by delivering first-class stock in good condition, with 

 full instructions how to care for it, the fault is not 

 ours if any of our customers should lose a portion 

 of their stock. Experience has taught us that pur- 

 chasers frequently lose Nursery stock through neg- 

 lect; and we have taken the precaution to send a 

 copy of our Transplanting Directions for every cus- 

 tomer, so that none may claim that they do not 

 know how to plant and care for their stock. 



We guarantee to deliver the stock in good condi- 

 tion, and could we plant and care for it for the first 

 three months, would willingly insure the growth of 

 every tree and shrub sent out. We seldom lose a 

 plant, even when we import them from Europe and 

 grow them here during the summer for fall delivery, 

 and the stock is out of the ground for many weeks. 

 Anything that is cultivated in the earth cannot live 

 without nourishment and care. 



CARE OF STOCK 



The bundles should be opened immediately, the 

 roots dipped in water, then heeled in moist ground 

 so that the mellow earth will come in contact with 

 the roots and thoroughly protect them from the air, 

 having the earth tramped solid about them. 



When ready to plant, take up only a few at a 

 time, puddle the roots, and do not allow them to lie 

 exposed to the sun or air. 



The ground should be carefully prepared by deep 

 plowing and firming down with a disc and harrow. 



PLANTING 



The holes for planting must be large enough to 

 receive the roots freely, without cramping or bend- 

 ing them from their natural position. All broken or 

 mutilated portions of the roots must be cut off so 

 as to leave the ends smooth and sound. All trees 

 should be planted two or three inches deeper than 

 they stood in the nursery row; pack the soil very 

 firmly about the roots by tamping with the feet or 

 post tamper, being careful not to bark or break the 

 roots. Leave three inches of the surface soil loose 

 to serve as a mulch. If the ground is very dry 

 apply one to two pails of water before this soil 

 mulch is in place, and after the water has soaked 

 away it can then be placed over the moist soil. 

 Never put manure so as to come in contact with 

 the roots of any plant or tree. 



PRUNING 



Apple and Pear — Select from three to five of the 

 branches to form the permanent head of the tree. 

 These branches should be well distributed around 

 the trunk, and at a safe distance apart up and down 

 the trunk. If two branches come out, one exactly 

 opposite the other, forming a crotch, a split may 

 occur at this weak point in later life when the tree 

 is full of fruit. Shorten these selected branches to 

 about five buds, cutting the branches just above a 

 bud that points outward. Remove all the other 

 branches close to the trunk, leaving no stub longer 

 than one-eighth to one-quarter inch. Also shorten 

 back two-thirds the central leader of the tree, if 

 one exists, else the tree assumes a too upright 

 growth for best results in later life. 



Cherry — Five or six good limbs, well distributed 

 around the trunk, will be sufficient to form a well 



4 



I 'W 



Newly set 2-year 



Apple ready to be 



pruned 



Almost Sure to Die 



balanced top. The limbs left after pruning should 

 not be cut back as severely as recommended for 

 some other classes. 



Plum — Cut back all branches to about two or 

 three buds. After the tree has grown for a year, 

 remove all but four or five branches, but do not 

 cut these back. These limbs will form the perma- 

 nent framework for the top and subsequent growth 

 may be pruned to meet the requirements or taste 

 of the planter. 



Peach — These should be planted immediately on 

 delivery, or, if not prepared to do so, the roots 

 should be buried in the ground. They will not stand 

 exposure to the sun and air, and many are lost sim- 

 ply for the want of care. As soon as planted, cut 

 back all side branches to within two or three inches 

 of the main stem. Make this the invariable practice, 

 and never deviate from it if you wish to save your 

 trees. The growth will be much more rapid and 

 vigorous in consequence of this pruning, and by 

 strictly adhering to it, and by immediate planting, 

 or covering the roots in the soil, very few, if any, 

 trees will be lost. Peaches, like all other stock we 

 deliver, will be in fine condition, having been care- 

 fully handled and kept from exposure by us. If 

 you do not follow our directions and meet with loss, 

 the fault will be entirely with you. 



Grapes — These should be planted ten to twelve 

 inches deep in holes large enough to admit roots 

 without curling them, pressing soil solid about roots. 

 Cut vines back to within three or four buds of the 

 roots. Keep the ground clean by cultivating; if im- 

 possible to cultivate, mulch. Prune in February or 

 early March, before there are any signs of new 

 growth. Cut back to two buds as shown. The 

 fruit of the grape is borne only on shoots of the 

 current year's growth, which spring from the wood 

 of last year's growth — hence the importance of an- 

 nual and intelligent pruning. 



*4j. 



Same Apple 

 Tree pruned 



Newly set Peach 



ready to be 



pruned 



Same Peach pruned 

 Prune 1-year Apple 

 same way 



