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FOLLOW THESE PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY 



Asparagus — Prepare ground by deep plowing or 

 spading. To have it real early it should be planted 

 on light soil. The sprouts are not usually cut for 

 the market until the second year after planting, 

 except to mow down the canes in the fall or spring. 

 Plant from four to five inches deep, covering with 

 only three inches of soil at first, and cover the re- 

 mainder as the plants grow. The rows should be 

 five feet apart, with the plants set two feet apart 

 in the row. Broadcast about five bushels of salt 

 and three hundred pounds of Nitrate of Soda to the 

 acre in March and give it a good top dressing of 

 stable manure in November. 



Rhubarb — Prepare ground as for asparagus. Set 

 the plants with crown or eye two inches under 

 ground. Plant three feet apart each way. Mulch 

 in winter. Give clean cultivation the same as for 

 any other crop. 



As the vine grows train to trellis as 

 shown in illustration. 



SHRUBS 



If planted in beds or groups the ground should 

 be spaded deeply and well worked. If shrubs are 

 set as individual specimens they should be planted 

 the same as trees. 



Set shrubs at the same depth as they stood in the 

 nursery row, or with their crowns at about the sur- 

 face of the ground. Water the plants well during 

 the hot, dry weather and keep the ground well 

 stirred around them. Most shrubs require judicious 

 pruning at planting time, and subsequently, when 

 shrubs are planted, it is advisable to cut them back 

 from one-half to two-thirds, with but few excep- 

 tions. 



HEDGES 



Privet — Dig trench twelve inches deep or more 

 and set the plants four to six inches deeper than 

 they stood in the nursery row, or deep enough so 

 the lower branches will be four to six inches under 

 the ground. Such deep planting will make a com- 

 pact hedge down to the ground line, but if the 

 plants are set shallow there will always be unde- 

 sirable open spaces at the base of the hedge. Some 

 planters set Privet in a double row, eight to ten 

 inches apart each way, which makes a very dense 

 hedge. Cut Privet back to six inches when planting 

 to promote thick new growth at the lower part of 

 plant. 



Barberry-Spirea — Should be planted in the same 

 manner as shrubs, either in trenches for hedge or 

 as groups or individual specimens. Cut back and 

 thin out one-half of top wood. 



ROSES 



If roses are planted in the ordinary way with the 

 tops left exposed to the sun and drying winds of 

 the spring, they are almost sure to shrivel before 

 time for them to grow, and thus the plants are 

 greatly endangered, while if the following sugges- 

 tions are followed, success is almost certain. The 

 plants should be unpacked as soon as received from 

 the nursery and planted, if possible. If unable to 

 plant them immediately upon receiving them, they 

 should be heeled-in deep (buried) in moist, loose 

 earth, waiting time to plant. In planting they should 

 be set two or three inches deeper than they stood 

 in the nursery in well-prepared, damp soil, but not 

 wet enough to be muddy. If the soil is dry it is 

 well to plant the roses solidly, then wet thoroughly, 

 and after the water has soaked away throw up a 

 small mound of earth five or six inches high around 

 the plant. Then cut off the branches about one 

 inch above the mound, leaving it this way for ten 

 days or two weeks, or until the buds start and show 

 a desire to grow, when the dirt mound can be 

 raked down. Roses handled in this way hardly 

 ever fail to make a good start and a very satisfac- 

 tory growth. 



SHADE TREES 



Ornamentals — Dig holes large enough to accom- 

 modate all rcots without bending or cramping. Pill 

 the hole with good top dirt and firm it hard. When 

 the hole is three-fourths full allow a bucket or 

 more of water to seep away around the roots, after 

 which the hole may be entirely filled. It is well to 

 mulch the tree immediately to prevent drying out. 

 Prune all limbs back to five or seven good buds, 

 even though the appearance of the tree is impaired 

 by such treatment. Water trees during the sum- 

 mer months and give them plenty of attention until 

 they have become well established. Large sizes of 

 shade trees can often be staked to advantage until 

 their roots have obtained good anchorage in the soiL 



FALL PLANTING 



When set in autumn, a mound of earth, a foot 

 or more in height, must be raised about the trees. 

 This is very essential, as it keeps them from being 

 swayed by the winds or thrown out by the frost 

 during the winter. It should be removed in the 

 spring. 



In sections where the winters are extremely se- 

 vere, trees procured in the fall can be best cared 

 for by covering the roots with earth during the 

 winter and planting them in the spring. 



To insure success, select a spot where no water 

 will stand during the winter, having no grass near 

 to invite mice. Dig a trench deep enough to admit 

 one layer of roots, and sloping enough to permit the 

 trees to lie at an angle of not more than 30 degrees 

 with the ground. Having placed one end of the 

 roots in this trench, cover them with mellow earth, 

 extending well up on the tree and see that this is 

 firmly packed. Then add another layer of trees, 

 overlapping the first, continuing as at first until all 

 are heeled in. As soon as this is done, cover the 

 tops so with evergreen boughs that they will be 

 thoroughly protected from winds. 



SPRAYING 



There are four distinct types of troubles to com- 

 bat, i. e. : Chewing insects, sucking insects, scale 

 insects and fungous diseases. Chewing insects are 

 controlled with a stomach poison, some form of 

 arsenic (lead arsenate), sucking insects (lice or 

 aphids) by body contact poison (nicotine), or mis- 

 cible oil (kerosene emulsion), and fungous diseases 

 by lime-sulphur solution or Bordeaux mixture. Be 

 sure you know what you are spraying for, since 

 arsenate of lead will not control lice or aphids, nor 

 will nicotine or kerosene emulsion control apple 

 worms, and neither of these will have any effect 

 on apple scab or other fungous diseases. Lime- 

 sulphur is used as a dormant spray for scale insects 

 and also for fungus. In spraying the apple, keep 

 in mind the two main apple troubles, the codding 

 moth and apple scab, and, in controlling these, most 

 other troubles are incidentally controlled. Lead ar- 

 senate and lime-sulphur or Bordeaux mixture are 

 the sprays to use. For further information write 

 your State Department. 



NUMBER OP TREES OR PLANTS TO THE ACRE (Square System) 

 No. of Trees Distance No. of Trees Distance 

 9 feet apart each way 537 



10 feet apart each way 435 



11 feet apart each way 360 



12 feet apart each way 305 



13 feet apart each way 257 



14 feet apart each way 222 



15 feet apart each way 193 



16 feet apart each way 170 



RULE — Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the plants are; number of square 



feet for each plant, which, divided into the number of square feet in an acre (43,560), will give the number 

 of plants or trees to the acre. 



Distance 



1 foot apart each way 43.560 



2 feet apart each way 10,890 



3 feet apart each way 4.840 



4 feet apart each way 2,722 



5 feet apart each way 1,74 5 



6 feet apart each way 1,210 



7 feet apart each way 888 



8 feet apart each way 680 



No. of Trees 



17 feet apart each way 150 



18 feet apart each way 134 



19 feet apart each way 120 



20 feet apart each way 108 



25 feet apart each way 69 



30 feet apart each way 48 



35 feet apart each way 35 



40 feet apart each way 27 



