SURVEY OF THE GANGES. 533 



From hence, we descended to the bed of the river ; where, in a small 

 recess of the bank, is J^dreda-Cund, sheltered by a large rock, whose 

 projecting angle breaks the force of the current. A little to the left of it 

 is Surya-Cundy another hot spring, issuing, in a very small stream, through 

 a fissure in the bank. There is no bason, or reservoir, to receive the wa- 

 ter ; but the pilgrims catch it in their hands as it falls, and sprinkle them- 

 selves over with it. This ceremony is observed, as much for comfort, as 

 from any motive of piety ; for the water of the river is so cold, at this 

 season, that after performing their frigid ablutions, the bathers are glad 

 to have recourse to the element in a more tepid state. Besides these, 

 there are numerous other springs, which have their peculiar names and 

 virtues ; which are, no doubt, turned to a good account by the Brdhmens. 

 In going the round of purification, the poor pilgrim finds his purse lessen, 

 as his sins decrease ; and the numerous tolls, that are levied on this high 

 road to paradise, may induce him to think, that the straightest path is 

 not the least expensive. 



As we ascended the steps, the arrival of the Ratihil was announced. 

 We met him near the Tapta-Cund, where a cloth was spread for us, and 

 a small carpet of flowered China silk for the pontiff. He was preceded 

 by three or four Harcdrahs and Chobddrs, with the silver emblems of 

 their oflfice ; behind him was a man bearing a Chaurl of peacock's feathers ; 

 and in his suite were the chief officiating priests of the temple. He was 

 dressed in a quilted vest, of green satin, widi a white shawl Camerband, 

 On his head he wore a red turban, and on his feet a pair of party colour- 

 ed socks ; his ears were ornamented with a couple of large golden rings ; 

 to each of which was suspended a very handsome pearl, of considerable 

 size. His neck was decorated with a triple string of small pearls ; and, 



M 6 



