R. & J. FARQUHAR & CO.'S AUTUMN CATALOGUE. 



HYACINTHS. 



NOTES ON THEIR CULTURE. 



Hyacinths in Pots. It is important in the pot culture of the Hyacinth to hav^e rich, Hght soil; if possible, a 

 compost, one-third decayed turf, one-third old, rotten cow manure, and the remainder equal parts sharp sand and 

 leaf-mould. This compost should be made a few weeks before being used. If the bulbs are to be potted singly, pots 

 five inches in diameter are the proper size, and the special Hyacinth pots, which are about two inches deeper than 

 ordinary pots, are preferable. Cover the hole in the pot with a piece of broken pot, and over this place a layer of 

 moss, which will keep the soil from clogging the drainage thus provided. Break off any offsets which appear at the 

 base of the bulbs, and in potting place each bulb so that its top shall be half an inch below the surface of the soil 

 and an inch below the rim of the pot. The soil should be of usual natural moisture, and should be pressed mod- 

 erately firm. The filled pots may be placed in a cold frame where there is protection from frost, and well watered. 

 An excellent plan is to place them on a bed of moist, sifted coal ashes, covering the pots to a depth of six inches 

 with the same material. When well rooted, which will be in about six weeks, the bulbs may be brought indoors 

 and forced. For the first two or three weeks they should be kept in a temperature not exceeding 50 degrees. Suc- 

 cess in forcing depends much on their having strong roots before being brought to the light. The top grows rapidly, 

 and unless the roots are started much in advance they are unable to nourish the plant, and failure results. 



Hyacinths for early use may be potted in September or October; late planting is not advisable, as the bulbs 

 deteriorate; when desired for late use, it is better to pot them in October and keep them in a cold frame above 

 freezing until it is desired to force them into bloom. 



To obtain dwarf foliage and fine flower spikes, Hyacinths when being forced should have plenty of manure- 

 water, fresh air, and should be kept very near the glass. The blooms last much longer if shaded from the sun. 



Hyacinths in Glasses. The single varieties are, with a few exceptions, best adapted to this mode of culture; 

 they produce finer fiower spikes than the double. 



Fill the glass with clear, soft water, so as nearly to touch the base of the bulb, putting a small piece of charcoal 

 in each glass to keep the water pure and afford some nourishment. The filled glasses should be placed in 

 a dry, cool, dark place, and kept there until the roots almost touch the bottom of the glass, when they may be 

 exposed gradually to the light. If the water in the glasses becomes foul, or diminished, replace it with fresh water 

 at about the same temperature as the atmosphere in which the bull)s are growing; otherwise it need not be 

 changed. 



When well started, the bulbs should have plenty of light and air, without draughts, in order that the best devel- 

 opment and brilliancy of color may be attained. 



Hyacinths in the Opex Gardex. The ground should be dug to a depth of at least fifteen inches, and 

 enriched with plenty of well-rotted cow manure. 



Hyacinths may be planted from September until winter sets in; although if the highest success is sought 

 they should be in the ground Ijy the end of October. 



Bulbs planted early develop roots in the autumn, and these, if protected from injury by freezing and thawing 

 alternately during the winter, enable the l)ulbs to produce much larger flower spikes than if the roots are not devel- 

 oped until spring. Frost reaching the bulbs raises them up, thus detaching them from their roots. Protection 

 may be afforded bv covering the beds with straw or leaves to a depth of six or eight inches, which should be re- 

 moved early in the spring. 



Hyacinths should l)e set about six inches below the surface of the ground and about six inches apart. 



