CULTURE OF HYACINTHS. 
Hyacinths in Pots. It is important in the pot culture of the hyacinth to have rich, light soil—if possible, a compost of one-third 
decayed turf, one-third old rotten, cow manure, and the remainder equal parts of sharp sand and leaf-mould. This compost should be made 
a few weeks before being used. If the bulbs are to be potted singly, pots five inches in diameter are the proper size, and the special Hyacinth 
pots which are about two inches deeper than ordinary pots, are preferable. For drainage, cover the hole in the pot with a piece of broken 
pot, and over this place a layer of moss. Break off any offsets which appear at the base of the bulbs, and in potting place each bulb so that 
its top shall be half an inch below the surface of the soil and an inch below the rim of the pot. The soil should be of usual natural moisture, 
and should be pressed moderately firm. The filled pots may be placed in a cold frame where there is protection from frost, and well watered. 
An excellent plan is to place them on a bed of moist, sifted coal ashes, covering the pots to a depth of six inches with the same material. When 
well rooted, which will be in about six weeks, the bulbs may be brought indoors and forced. For the first two or three weeks they should be 
kept in a temperature not exceeding 50 degrees. Success in forcing depends much on their having strong roots before being brought 
to the light. The top grows rapidly, and unless the roots are started much in advance they are unable to nourish the plant, and failure 
results. Hyacinths for early use may be potted in September or October; late planting is not advisable, as the bulbs deteriorate; when desired 
for late use, it is better to pot them in October and keep them in a cold frame above freezing until it is desired to force them into bloom. 
To obtain dwarf foliage and fine flower spikes, Hyacinths when being forced should have plenty of manure-water, fresh air, and should 
be kept very near the glass. The blooms last much longer if shaded from the sun. 
Hyacinths in Glasses. The single varieties are, with a few exceptions, best adapted to this mode of culture; they produce finer 
flower spikes than the double. Fill the glass with clear, soft water, so as nearly to touch the base of the bulb, putting a small piece of 
charcoal in each glass to keep the water pure, and afford some nourishment. The filled glasses should be placed in a dry, cool, dark 
place, and kept there until the roots almost touch the bottom of the glass, when they may be exposed gradually to the light. If the 
water in the glasses becomes foul, or diminished, replace it with fresh water at about the same temperature as the atmosphere in which 
the bulbs are growing; otherwise it need not be changed. When well started, the bulbs should have plenty of light and air, without 
draughts, in order that the best development and brilliancy of color may be attained. 
Hyacinths in the Open Garden. The ground should be dug to a depth of at least fifteen inches, and enriched with plenty of well- 
rotted cow manure. Hyacinths may be planted from September until winter sets in; although if the highest success is sought they should 
be in the ground by the end of October. Bulbs planted early develop roots in the autumn, and these, if protected from injury by freez- 
ing and thawing alternately during the winter, enable the bulbs to produce much larger flower spikes than if the roots are not developed 
until spring. Frost reaching the bulbs raises them up, thus detaching them from their roots. Protection may be afforded by covering 
the beds with straw or leaves to a depth of six or eight inches, which should be removed early in the spring. Hyacinths should be set six 
inches below the surface of the ground and six inches apart. 
