LAW-MAKING AND MAINTENANCE 



The very best time of the year to make a new lawn is 

 early in the fall because of ample rainfall, continued cool 

 weather and the wrinter killing of many weeds. The second 

 best season is very early spring (March and April) because 

 there is sufficient rainfall and cool weather to start the young 

 grass quickly. Spring seeding however must compete with 

 weed seeds in the soil and is sometimes damaged by hot 

 dry weather before it is thoroughly established. 



Preparing the Soil 



Preparation of the soil is the most important part of lawn 

 making and should have the most careful attention because 

 no amount of effort spent after a lawn is made can equal the 

 results of thorough tillage before the seed is sown. 



A successful lawn requires at least 2 to 4 inches of good 

 quality top soil possessing the organic matter and plant foods 

 necessciry for sturdy growth of the grasses. However six 

 inches or more of thoroughly prepared finely pulverized and 

 fertilized top soil would be ideal. 



If existing top soil is of fair quaUfy and at least 2 to 4 

 inches deep it should not be neecssary to spread additional 

 top soil. It is essential though to apply a good lawn fer- 

 tilizer which is high in phosphate (such as bone meal or the 

 chemical lawn foods) at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. 

 In addition to this an application of a one inch layer of 

 humus or a two inch layer cf well rotted manure (it must be 

 very well rotted to be weed free) is necessary to supply 

 sufficient organic matter. 



After spreading the plant food and humus materials evenly, 

 they must then be spaded into and mixed with the top soil 

 to a depth of about six inches depending on the quality of 

 the sub-soil and the depth of the top soil. When this newly 

 processed top soil is completely broken up and thoroughly 

 mixed it should be raked and rolled in both directions until 

 there are no uneven places. A good seed bed has now been 

 prepared and is ready for seeding. 



Sowing the Seed 



Sow at the rate of 1 lb. to 200 sq. ft. broadcasting half of 

 the seed in one direction and the other half at right angles. 

 If the soil is dry the surface may be raked very lightly cov- 

 ering seed not over Ve in. and being extremely careful to 

 avoid "bunching" the seed. Rolling is desirable but only 

 practical if the soil is sufficiently dry so that the seed does 

 not stick to the roller. Many successful lawns are made 

 without raking or rolling in the seed by depending upon the 

 rain or watering to pack the soil firmly about the seeds. If 

 watering is once begun however the soil must be kept damp 

 continuously or the seed may sprout and die off before it has 

 rooted. Clipping should begin when the grass is about 3 

 inches high but should not be cut closer than 2 inches. 



Re-Seeding Old Lawns 



Thin turf or lawns with bare spots can be rebuilt by 

 raking lightly so that the existing grass is not damaged and 

 then seeding as though making a new lawn. Another satis- 

 factory method is to mix seed with top soil or sow the seed 

 and then cover lightly wi'h top soil. In either case the top 



soil should be free from ^veed seeds. If the seed is sown 

 early in March it can be broadcast without raking or rolling 

 because the ground is "open" and the late wet snows will 

 carry it in. 



Fertilizing 



Timely and ample applications of fertilizers have double 

 advantages. Very early feeding whether Spring or Fall 

 forces growth of the grass during its most natural growing 

 seasons, thereby helping it to crowd out crab-grass and more 

 easily survive hot dry summer weather. A strong healthy 

 turf also stands the rigors of winter so much better. Fertilizer 

 materials are most accurately and easily applied by using a 

 fertilizer spreader. Most materials should be applied when 

 the grass is dry at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. then 

 watered in. Lawns that are thoroughly estabUshed and are 

 thriving should be fertilized once every two years but aver- 

 age lawns require at least one feeding a year. 



Rolling 



During the winter the alternate freezing and thawing have 

 played "tug-o-war" with the little grass plants in your lawn, 

 heaving them out of the ground so that they are only partly 

 rooted. It is therefore extremely necessary to roll your 

 lawn after the frost is out of the ground and while it is still 

 wet but not soggy. This smooths out uneven places caused 

 by the frost and puts the grass roots back where they can 

 qxiickly begin producing a luxuriant lawn. 



Weed Control 



One of the best weed controls is a good heavy turf, well 

 fertilized very early, cut not shorter than 2 inches and kept 

 seeded to grass so there will be practically no space for 

 weeds to grow. Crab-grass which is perhaps the most diffi- 

 cult weed to combat should be killed by chemicals during 

 June or July. Other chemicals such as 2-4-D are avsdlcibl* 

 for clearing lawns of dandelions, plantain and most other 

 lawn weeds. 



SoUpH 



For most Maryland lawns the pH values (acidity or 

 alkalinity) should be between 6.0 and 7.5, that is ranging 

 between slightly acid to slightly alkaUne, 7 being neutral. 

 The grasses which thrive best in this climate succeed best in 

 this pH range. If the soil is strongly acid (pH 4.5 to 5.0) an 

 application of 10 lbs. of ground limestone per 100 sq. ft. will 

 reduce the acidity to approximately pH 6. Lime should not 

 be used on lawns unless an actual soil test indicates exces- 

 sive acidity. 



Moss 



The presence of moss is often considered an indication of 

 acid soil, but it is more often the result of low fertility. 

 During March apply nitrate of soda (1 lb. per 100 sq. ft.) 

 This will kill the moss but not injure the grass. In about two 

 weeks the dead moss may be raked from the lawn and if 

 there are bare spots they should be reseeded at once. 



ALWAYS SOW MANNS' SUPERIOR SEEDS 



