LAWN MAKING AND MAINTENANCE 
The very best time of the year to make a new lawn 
is early in the fall because of ample rainfall, continued 
cool weather and the winter killing of many weeds. 
The second best season is very early spring (March 
and April) because there is sufficient rainfall and cool 
weather to start the young grass quickly. Spring 
seeding however must compete with weed seeds in the 
soil and is sometimes damaged by hot dry weather 
before it is thoroughly established. 
Preparing the Soil 
Preparation of the soil is the most important part 
of lawn making and should have the most careful 
attention because no amount of effort spent after a 
lawn is made can equal the results of thorough tillage 
before the seed is sown. 
A successful lawn requires at least 2 to 4 inches of 
good quality top soil possessing the organic matter 
and plant foods necessary for sturdy growth of the 
grasses. However six inches or more of thoroughly 
prepared finely pulverized and fertilized top soil would 
be ideal. 
If existing top soil is of fair quality and at least 2 
to 4 inches deep it should not be necessary to spread 
additional top soil. It is essential though to apply a 
good lawn fertilizer which is high in phosphate (such 
as bone meal or the chemical lawn foods) at the rate 
of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. In addition to this an 
application of a one inch layer of humus or a two 
inch layer of well rotted manure (it must be very well 
rotted to be weed free) is necessary to supply sufficient 
organic matter. 
After spreading the plant food and humus materials 
evenly, they must then be spaded into and mixed with 
the top soil to a depth of about six inches depending on 
the quality of the sub-soil and the depth of the top soil. 
When this newly processed top soil is completely broken 
up and thoroughly mixed it should be raked and rolled 
in both directions until there are no uneven places. A 
good seed bed has now been prepared and is ready 
for seeding. 
Sowing the Seed 
Sow at the rate of 1 lb. to 200 sq. ft. broadcasting 
half of the seed in one direction and the other half at 
right angles. If the soil is dry the surface may be 
raked very lightly covering seed not over %% in. and 
being extremely careful to avoid “bunching” the seed. 
Rolling is desirable but only practical if the soil is 
sufficiently dry so that the seed does not stick to the 
roller. Many successful lawns are made without raking 
or rolling in the seed by depending upon the rain or 
watering to pack the soil firmly about the seeds. If 
watering is once begun however the soil must be kept 
damp continuously or the seed may sprout and die 
off before it has rooted. Clipping should begin when 
the grass is about 3 inches high but should not be 
cut closer than 2 inches. 
Re-Seeding Old Lawns 
Thin turf or lawns with bare spots can be rebuilt by 
raking lightly so that the existing grass is not damaged 
and then seeding as though making a new lawn. An- 
other satisfactory method is to mix seed with top soil 
or sow the seed and then cover lightly with top soil. 
42 J. MANNS & CO., Baltimore, Md. 
In either case the top soil should be free from weed 
seeds. If the seed is sown early in March it can be 
broadeast without raking or rolling because the ground 
is “open” and the late heavy snows will carry it in. 
Fertilizing 
Timely and ample applications of fertilizers have 
double advantages. Very early feeding whether Spring 
or Fall forces growth of the grass during its most 
natural growing seasons, thereby helping it to crowd 
out crab-grass and more easily survive hot dry sum- 
mer weather. A strong healthy turf also stands the 
rigors of winter so much better. Fertilizer materials 
are most accurately and easily applied by using a fer- 
tilizer spreader. Most materials should be applied 
when the grass is dry at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 
sq. ft. then watered in. Lawns that are thoroughly 
established and are thriving should be fertilized once 
every two years but average lawns require at least one 
feeding a year. 
Rolling 
During the winter the alternate freezing and thaw- 
ing have played “tug-o-war” with the little grass 
plants in your lawn, heaving them out of the ground 
so that they are only partly rooted. It is therefore 
extremely necessary to roll your lawn after the frost 
is out of the ground and while it is still wet but not 
soggy. This smooths out uneven places caused by the 
frost and puts the grass roots back where they can 
quickly begin producing a luxuriant lawn. 
Weed Control 
One of the best weed controls is a good heavy turf, 
well fertilized very early, cut not shorter than 2 inches 
and kept seeded to grass so there will be practically no 
space for weeds to grow. Crab-grass which is perhaps 
the most difficult weed to combat should be killed by 
chemicals during June or July. Another type of chem- 
ical is available for clearing lawns of dandelions, plan- 
tain and most other lawn weeds. 
Soil pH 
For most Maryland lawns the pH values (acidity or 
alkalinity) should be between 6.0 and 7.5, that is rang- 
ing between slightly acid to slightly alkaline, 7 being 
neutral. The grasses which thrive best in this climate 
succeed best in this pH range. If the soil is strongly 
acid (pH 4.5 to 5.0) an application of 10 lbs. of ground 
limestone per 100 sq. ft. will reduce the acidity to 
approximately pH 6. Lime should not be used on lawns 
unless an actual soil test indicates excessive acidity. 
Moss 
The presence of moss is often considered an indica- 
tion of acid soil, but it is more often the result of low 
fertility. During March apply nitrate of soda (1 lb. 
per 100 sq. ft.) This will kill the moss but not injure 
the grass. In about two weeks the dead moss may be 
raked from the lawn and if there are bare spots they 
should be reseeded at once. 
Superior Seeds 
