LAWN MAKING AND MAINTENANCE 



The very best time of the year to make a new lawn 

 is early in the fall because of ample rainfall, continued 

 cool weather and the winter killing of many weeds. 

 The second best season is very early spring (March 

 and April) because there is sufficient rainfall and cool 

 weather to start the young grass quickly. Spring 

 seeding however must compete with weed seeds in the 

 soil and is sometimes damaged by hot dry weather 

 before it is thoroughly established. 



Preparing the Soil 



Preparation of the soil is the most important part 

 of lawn making and should have the most careful 

 attention because no amount of effort spent after a 

 lawn is made can equal the results of thorough tillage 

 before the seed is sown. 



A successful lawn requires at least 2 to 4 inches of 

 good quality top soil possessing the organic matter 

 and plant foods necessary for sturdy growth of the 

 grasses. However six inches or more of thoroughly 

 prepared finely pulverized and fertilized top soil would 

 be ideal. 



If existing top soil is of fair quality and at least 2 

 to 4 inches deep it should not be necessary to spread 

 additional top soil. It is essential though to apply a 

 good lawn fertilizer which is high in phosphate (such 

 as bone meal or the chemical lawn foods) at the rate 

 of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. In addition to this an 

 application of a one inch layer of humus or a two 

 inch layer of well rotted manure (it must be very well 

 rotted to be weed free) is necessary to supply sufficient 

 organic matter. 



After spreading the plant food and humus materials 

 evenly, they must then be spaded into and mixed with 

 the top soil to a depth of about six inches depending on 

 the quality of the sub-soil and the depth of the top soil. 

 When this newly processed top soil is completely broken 

 up and thoroughly mixed it should be raked and rolled 

 in both directions until there are no uneven places. A 

 good seed bed has now been prepared and is ready 

 for seeding. 



Sowing the Seed 



Sow at the rate of 1 lb. to 200 sq. ft. broadcasting 

 half of the seed in one direction and the other half at 

 right angles. If the soil is dry the surface may be 

 raked very lightly covering seed not over Vs in. and 

 being extremely careful to avoid "bunching" the seed. 

 Rolling is desirable but only practical if the soil is 

 sufficiently dry so that the seed does not stick to the 

 roller. Many successful lawns are made without raking 

 or rolling in the seed by depending upon the rain or 

 watering to pack the soil firmly about the seeds. If 

 watering is once begun however the soil must be kept 

 damp continuously or the seed may sprout and die 

 off before it has rooted. Clipping should begin when 

 the grass is about 3 inches high but should not be 

 cut closer than 2 inches. 



Re-Seeding Old Lawns 



Thin turf or lawns with bare spots can be rebuilt by 

 raking lightly so that the existing grass is not damaged 

 and then seeding as though making a new lawn. An- 

 other satisfactory method is to mix seed with top soil 

 or sow the seed and then cover lightly with top soil. 



In either case the top soil should be free from weed 

 seeds. If the seed is sown early in March it can be 

 broadcast without raking or rolling because the ground 

 is "open" and the late heavy snows will carry it in. 



Fertilizing 



Timely and ample applications of fertilizers have 

 double advantages. Very early feeding whether Spring 

 or Fall forces growth of the grass during its most 

 natural growing seasons, thereby helping it to crowd 

 out crab-grass and more easily survive hot dry sum- 

 mer weather. A strong healthy turf also stands the 

 rigors of winter so much better. Fertilizer materials 

 are most accurately and easily applied by using a fer- 

 tilizer spreader. Most materials should be applied 

 when the grass is dry at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 

 sq. ft. then watered in. Lawns that are thoroughly 

 established and are thriving should be fertilized once 

 every two years but average lawns require at least one 

 feeding a year. 



Rolling 



During the winter the alternate freezing and thaw- 

 ing have played "tug-o-war" with the little grass 

 plants in your lawn, heaving them out of the ground 

 so that they are only partly rooted. It is therefore 

 extremely necessary to roll your lawn after the frost 

 is out of the ground and while it is still wet but not 

 soggy. This smooths out uneven places caused by the 

 frost and puts the grass roots back where they can 

 quickly begin producing a luxuriant lawn. 



Weed Control 



One of the best weed controls is a good heavy turf, 

 well fertilized very early, cut not shoi'ter than 2 inches 

 and kept seeded to grass so there will be practically no 

 space for weeds to grow. Crab-grass which is perhaps 

 the most difficult weed to combat should be killed by 

 chemicals during June or July. Another type of chem- 

 ical is available for clearing lawns of dandelions, plan- 

 tain and most other lawn weeds. 



Soil pH 



For most Maryland lawns the pH values (acidity or 

 alkalinity) should be between 6.0 and 7.5, that is rang- 

 ing between slightly acid to slightly alkaline, 7 being 

 neutral. The grasses which thrive best in this climate 

 succeed best in this pH range. If the soil is strongly 

 acid (pH 4.5 to 5.0) an application of 10 lbs. of ground 

 limestone per 100 sq. ft. will reduce the acidity to 

 approximately pH 6. Lime should not be used on lawns 

 unless an actual soil test indicates excessive acidity. 



Moss 



The presence of moss is often considered an indica- 

 tion of acid soil, but it is more often the result of low 

 fertility. During March apply nitrate of soda (1 lb. 

 per 100 sq. ft.) This will kill the moss but not injure 

 the grass. In about two weeks the dead moss may be 

 raked from the lawn and if there are bare spots they 

 should be reseeded at once. 



42 



J. MANNS & CO., Baltimore, Md. 



Superior Seeds 



