348 MEMOIR OF A SURVEY OF 



Turning more east, we ascended a considerable height up a very steep 

 and rugged path, and arriving at a small patch of cleared ground, where 

 the trees had been felled, and the underwood burnt preparatory to 

 cultivation, we turned round on the most splendid view I had ever beheld. 

 The Brahmaputra was visible at no great distance on the right, emerging 

 from a long narrow chasm in the hills. On its northern banks, the low 

 hills, the tops of which had been visible from Chala, were seen running 

 along its edge, thence stretching away to the right, and varying in size 

 and character from the mere wooded ridge to the towering naked peak, 

 resplendent in its clothing of snow, and glittering in the sun-beams, until 

 they gave place to spreading plains. 



Our host for the night was the Chief of Thethong, of which village we 

 saw but two huts, and imagination can scarce picture a situation more wild 

 than they were placed in. The slope of the hill where they were built was 

 full thirty degrees ; the huts were of great length, and about twelve feet 

 broad — the beams of the floor resting on one side on the hill's face, and 

 on the other upon stakes driven into the ground below. The roof is of 

 the lightest materials, in order that the smoke may have free egress, and 

 it hangs down, projecting on each side to near the floor, to give protection 

 against the wind. Within, on one side, rows of bamboos extend horizon- 

 tally, the entire length laden with the blackened skulls of all the animals 

 on which the owner had, in the course of his life, feasted his friends ; 

 cross fences of bamboo mat, divide it into small apartments, in each 

 of which are one or more hearths glowing with burning faggots. Both 

 house and inmates were black with dirt and smoke. Outside the door, it 

 is but necessary to turn the back on the hut to suppose that we are far 

 removed from the habitation of men, in the depths of some wild forest — 

 so little does the immediate vicinity of the dwelling display any sort of 

 care. 



