CHAPTER VII 



COMMERCIAL SOPHISTICATION AND 

 SUBSTITUTION 



Throughout the history of commercial production, the coffee-bean 

 has been subjected to adulteration and 'doctoring' In the raw, roasted, 

 and ground form. Until the recent legislation and enforcement of 

 the Pure Food Laws, the coffee-business In the United States Involved 

 much fraud. Although there is much less manipulation than pre- 

 viously practised, the coffee-business Is far from being free from this 

 evil. Excessive adulteration and substitution still exist In Europe. 

 Subsequent discussion will Indicate clearly the extent of past and 

 present sophistication In Europe and In this country. 



The adulteration of coffee Is accomplished at various times during 

 its preparation for retail trade. The producer mixes old and inferior 

 beans with new and better ones. The export manipulator to com- 

 plete orders often adds beans of different grades, growths, and 

 varieties. The wholesale merchant in both the producing and 

 consuming countries adds small African and Indian beans and con- 

 siderable quantities of Liberlan and Robusta coffees to Arabian 

 coffee. I have found that Liberlan and Robusta coffees, which are 

 much less desirable as regards the quality of the resulting infusion 

 In respect to aroma and flavor, are widely used as fillers. Fair 

 grade beans are sorted out to obtain a uniform size and sold as 

 Mocha and Java; and of course, to demand the highest price. The 

 Pure Food Laws have helped to discourage this deception in the 

 United States. Coffee which has suffered from dampness or damage 

 from sea water during transportation is sometimes picked over, 

 washed, decolorized with lime water, washed again, dried rapidly, 

 colored by slight roasting, and dyed with nitric acid or by use of 

 cosmetics. The production of coffee to suit the color prejudices of 

 dealers Is accomplished by the treatment of the beans with graphite, 

 bone black, soot, chromate of lead, Scheele's green, yellow ochre, 



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