{7 
TABLISHE! 
REFERENCE TABLE FOR VEGETABLE SEED SOWERS. 
e i 5 Yi 5 C ‘i a) ny a J ~ 
Pe Me ores: Reed Dawe DISTANCE TABLE. | SEED SEED 
North, later; South, earlier. As a general ATURE NEEDED READY ror USE REQUIRED REQUIRED 
KIND OF VEGETABLE. rule it is pretty safe to allow six days’ = TO PROM FOR eee 
difference in planting for every hundred TO GERML- - vine APART IN Rows 100 Freer 
miles of latitude. GERMI- NATE SEED Sown. Rows. APART OF DRILL.| AN ACRE. 
Unprer GLAss OPEN GROUND. RENN 3 
ASPARAGUS, Seeds.......... Rivas vamiac April and May. 60° 20 to 28 8to + years..|. 4. to 5 Ibs. 
eS Roots. April oot Bepeantbr tus cet anc eccneeneal lhe eee oa WLLL UE ravens sol] MN LUst aac teteeaies| set auntes a. cecwayl Maseeabe mumemmnmle el 
KA Eira te aeod peroeca os May 15th to Aug. 1st.. ay? 6 to 10 5to Ti 1 bush. 
eal Boo May 15th toJune15th| 80° 6to10] 65to100 “ 10 to 12 qts. 
st Lima... cd oy 80° 6 to 10 65to 90 <“ 10 to 12 qts. 
EETS April to August..........- 60° 7 to 10 60 to ae ® 3 to 6 Ibs. 
ale) for spring use. August and September} 70° 6 to 10 85to120 <“ to 2 Ibs. 
alee Oe ! for fall use..... se UMe eee. oa S. 70° 6 to 10 S5itolZ07 1to 2 |bs. 
SIDULS) SIP IROOPINS hn ccoscecbacel ees April to July. 70° 6to10]100to120 * 1 Ib. 
CABBAGE, Dab yeysceco0 PAto ra leeeeee ete OO? 6to10/]100to125 <“* i Ib. 
ce Late... May and Jun 70° 6to10]120to180 ates 
ARROT, Harly.... rile ee 60° 10 to 15 65to 85 “ )S. 
OT, Tae May to July. 60° |10to15|100t0120 « 4 Ibs. 
IF'L ER, Harly. Aprile 70° 6to10|100to115 “ 6b. 
aa G OE Water alert May and June call ‘(Oe 6to10|]100to135 <* Y% Ib. 
(CUB TOI DISS Goccerc cose easenocene IN BURR serena beacicnecoan ae 60° 12to 20 |125to150 <“* 1 |b. 
CORN, SUGAR May 10th to July 10th ioe 8 to 10 60to100 “ Y, bush. 
CUCUMBER... May 15th to July 15th 80° 6to 8 6GOtom Somme: 2 to 3 lbs. 
Brit (Gy iss ANN Tp oe tone te Pee TANT aisha ache sat. | soe |10to14]125to160 « ¥% Ib. 
IOWA Deeg cance April to August. 60° 6 to 10 75 to 190 rf Tate 
JROVEMIn, TSW ATED Race aneien ter peters | Maman ...| April to July... 70° 6to 8| 65to 85 « Any: 
LENE............ February ....| April and May. .. “3 60° 6to10/120to160 ‘“ 5 to 6 Ibs. 
WHLETUCE........ February ....| April to August........... 60° 6 to 10 ia to LOOM: 2 to 3 Ibs. 
IMO DILLON S WTO RSE 5 = she aechcoohbeecoso50) |an Aca scto May 15th to June15th 80° 6 to 10 90to120 “* 2 to 3 lbs. 
ss NAINA GS ioncecctenaresasossnceden| lesonoS aces Oo ie 80° 8to12/100to125 “ 4 to 5 Ibs. 
ONION, Seed....... April and May............. 60° 6to10]120to150 *‘* 5 to 6 lbs 
yy Sets... es CaS Sins nD eee perborate alee al |e ica ote a dhas Paar ee bem D GAME ED! Lit i aneee eee need Uaioe seen Men metered s 
| PARSLEY... s se 60° 18 to 24 90to 100 * 5 to 6 Ibs 
BEANE SIN encenceee PAT naseecne arssetertecc eves 60° 12to18|100to150 < 5 to 6 lbs 
EAS, Wrinkled. April 15th to July 1st.. 70° 5 to 10 BOLtOMedD es 2 to 3 bush. 
ES Sreo Voy He S-eacrcop sods appedareseneol leone April 1st to Aug. 1st...) 65° 5 to 10 50to 65 ‘ 2 to 3 bush. 
PIG Were ceermeee recesses | IMAC hye semen slccaenenstteaacssstesecer-qeeeereinecs 80° 10to14/]1385to150 <* Y% |b. 
POTATOBRS. April 15th to June 1st. 70° 15 to 25 75to100 = * 10to12 bush. 
PUMPKINS May 20th to June20th} 80° 6to10|/100to125 <«* 4 to 5 Ibs. 
RADISH April Ist to Sept.15th.| 60° 4to 6 25to 50 <“ 9 to 10 Ibs. 
SALSIFY April and May............ 60° 8to12]125to160 * 8 to 10 Ibs. 
SUSTON NODE be esenrconasnanen April to Sept. 15th...... 60° 6 to 12 GOkLORET Sy ar 10 to 12 Ibs. 
SQUASH, Summer May 15th to July Ist..|. 80° 6 to 10 60to 75 << 8to 4)bs. 
sf : May 20th to June20th 80° 6 to 10) |} 100 to 125, << 3to 41]bs. 
ET @IWIGAW © eereee see Feb. unckistemm eee 80° 6to10|]125t0150 <“ Y, lb. 
TUR p April to September...... 70° 4to 7 60to 75 * 1 to 2)lbs. 
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 
SCABBY POTATOES PREVENTED. 
Potato scab has been yery successfully prevented by treating the tubers to 
be planted thus: 
Dissolve 24% ounces of corrosive sublimate in about 2 gallons of hot 
water, and then in ten or twelve hours afterwards dilute the solution with 
thirteen gallons of water. Wash the potatoes if they are very dirty, and 
immerse them before they are cut in the diluted solution for an hour and a hali, 
then spread out to dry. Cut and plant in the usual manner. By this treatment 
very smooth potatoes have been grown from very scabby tubers. 
The corrosive sublimate is very poisonous and must be used with great 
care. All treated tubers not planted must be deeply buried or placed beyond 
reach of children or animals. 
TO KEEP POTATOES PLUMP AND WITHOUT STARTING. 
Potatoes for eating purposes are kept in fine condition—much longer than 
usual—particularly when stored in too warm a cellar or in warm climates, by 
destroying the vitality of the buds (eyes), which prevents them from ‘‘starting,”’ 
and the consequent premature shrivelling. The method—Before storing, im- 
merse the potatoes for one hour in a solution prepared in the following propor- 
tions :—Twenty-five gallons of water in which has been thoroughly mixed 1 to 
1% pints of sulphurie acid. After removing the potatoes, allow them to dry 
thoroughly, then place them in barrels to prevent evaporation. Many germs of 
decay are also destroyed by this operation, which helps preservation. 
Potatoes treated as above are, of course, useless for planting purposes. 
TO PREVENT CROWS FROM DESTROYING CORN. 
the shelled corn in coal tar for a moment, then dust plaster over it. 
TO PREVENT INSECTS FROM DESTROYING NEWLY-SOWN 
Immerse 
SEEDS, Moisten and then stir them in red lead until they are coated with 
it. Allow them to dry an hour or two before planting. 
TO HASTEN THE RIPENING OF A FEW TOMATOES. Tie 
paper bags over the green fruits (as is done with grapes). It usually makes 
Several days’ difference. 
FRESH TOMATOES UNTIL DECEMBER can be had by picking the 
late unripened fruits just before frost and placing them on straw under the glass 
oi a cold frame, or in the cellar of a barn or dwelling-house. 
BEET, CAFROT, SALSIFY AND PARSNIP ROOTS, etc., may be 
kept in a cellar longer than usual without wilting, by packing them in damp 
sand or sphagnum moss. Wintered-oyer roots, such as Turnips and Beets, can 
be started in a cellar for their tops, which grow white (blanched) and make an 
excellent salad. 
ASPARAGUS, THE EARLIEST, MOST PRODUCTIVE AND 
LARGEST may be had by growing only male plants—which do not bear seeds 
and are therefore stronger growers. Sow the seeds in rows, and in two years 
discard. those that seed and make up your permanent bed from those that do 
not seed. 
FRUIT-TREES BEARING EVERY YEAR. 
The method employed in some important fruit-growing districts to secure 
a crop of fruit, such as Peaches, Apples, Plums, Pears, ete., with uniformity 
every year (providing the flowers are not rendered sterile by treezing) is to sys- 
tematically thin out the young fruit after danger from frost in the spring, and 
before the fruit gets large enough to become a tax on the tree. Fruit is seldom 
produced on the same spur every year; therefore, in thinning, they remove alli 
of the fruits from one spur without injuring it, soit may produce fruit buds for 
the next year, allowing the next spur to bear—of course, discriminating between 
promising and poor fruit. 
Various contrivances have been invented for this work, but they have proved 
impracticable, for they do not discriminate between the good and poor fruit, 
and, besides, often injure or break off spurs. So thinning has to be done by 
hand, and, aside from the great advantage of insuring a crop for the following: 
year, it pays the same season, on account of afar larger proportion of the fruit 
being of superior quality and of higher market value. 
A NEW FACTOR TO BE CONSIDERED IN SELECTING ONLY 
A FEW FRUITS FOR A SMALL HOME GARDEN. 
We often have reports from people who have only one or two trees, some- 
thing like this: ‘‘ My tree is large and healthy, but it has never borne any fruit. 
Why isit? And what can I do to makeit bear?” 
It has only recently become general knowledge that a number of varieties of 
fruits are partially or totally self-sterile, that is, if they are isolated and depend-— 
ent upon their own pollen they bear but little, or if the flowers are entirely 
sterile they bear no fruit at all. The same variety may bear enormously in a 
mixed orchard. While this investigation of self-fertile and self-sterile fruits is: 
still in its infancy, enough has now been proven to enable some of the latest 
works on fruit culture to give quite a list of Apples, Pears, Plums, Grapes and 
Strawberries that will bear when planted by themselves and those that will not. 
We have for several years in our Strawberry Catalogue mentioned the varie- 
ties of Strawberries that will bear alone and those that will not, and we think 
progressive nurserymen should publish a similar list in their catalogues in 
regard to fruit-trees for the benefit of those who only want a few trees for their 
home garden. 
If you have a perpetually barren fruit-tree in your yard, our advice would 
be to graft it in several places with some known fertilizing variety. 
_ CUT FLOWERS MAY BE KEPT FRESH much longer than usual, by- 
removing them from the vases at night, sprinkle them well and wrap stems, 
flowers and all closely in a saturated cloth, put in a cool place (above freezing’) = 
in the morning put fresh water in the vases, cut off about one-halfaninch of each 
stem, thus removing the callousness which forms on the bottom; this allows the 
stem and flower to again absorb water. 
TO PREVENT PETALS DROPPING FROM FLOWERS. Apply 
with a camel’s-hair brush a little transparent zum to the base of the petal and 
tube; the gum to be prepared by mixing white shellac with methylated spirit im 
a glass, china or stone jar, place by the fire and shake occasionally the first day. 
