R. &> /. FARQUHAR dr- CO.'S AUTUMN CATALOGUE. 



HYACINTHS. 



NOTES ON THEIR CULTURE. 



HYACINTHS IN POTS.— It is important in the pot culture of the Hyacinth to have rich light soil : a 

 compost, one-third decayed turf, one-third rotted cow manure — a year old at least — and the- remainder equal 

 parts sharp sand and leaf-mould, will be found excellent. The compost should be made a few weeks before being 

 used. If the bulbs are to be potted singly, pots hve inches in diameter should be used. Cover the hole in the pot 

 with a piece of broken pot and over this place a layer of moss, which will keep the soil from clogging the drainage 

 thus provided. Break off any offsets which appear at the base of the bulb, and in potting place the bulb so that its 

 top shall be half an inch below the level of the surface of the soil, and about an inch below the rim of the pot. The 

 soil should be moderately moist and should not be pressed too firmly. The filled pots may be placed in a cold 

 frame where there is protection from frost, and well watered. An excellent plan is to place them on a bed of 

 moist, sifted coal ashes, covering the pots to a depth of six inches with the same material. When well rooted, 

 which will be in four to six weeks, they may be brought indoors and forced. For the first two or three weeks they 

 should be kept in a temperature not exceeding 50 degrees. Success in forcing them depends much in their having 

 strong roots before being brought to the light. The top grows rapidly and unless the roots are started much in 

 advance, they are unable to nourish it and failure results. 



Hyacinths for early use may be potted in September, although October is perhaps the best time'; late planting 

 is not advisable as the bulbs deteriorate ; it is better to pot them in October and keep them in a cold frame above 

 freezing, when desired for late use. 



To obtain dwarf foliage and fine flower spikes, Hyacinths when being forced, should have plenty of manure- 

 water, fresh air, and be kept very near the glass. The blooms last much longer if shaded from the sun. 



HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. — The single varieties are, with a few exceptions, best adapted to this mode 

 of culture ; they produce finer flower spikes than the double. 



Fill the glass with clear soft water so as nearly to touch the base of the bulb, putting a small piece of charcoal 

 in each glass to keep the water pure and afford some nourishment. The filled glasses should be placed in a dry, 

 cool, dark place, and kept there until the roots almost touch the bottom of the glass, when they may be exposed 

 gradually to the light. If the water in the glasses becomes foul, or diminished, replace it with fresh water about 

 the same temperature as the atmosphere in which the bulbs are growing ; otherwise it need not be changed. 



When well started, the bulbs should have plenty of light and air, but without draughts, in order that the best 

 development and brilliancy of color, may be attained. 



HYACINTHS IN THE OPEN GARDEN.— The giound should be dug to a depth of at least fifteen 

 inches and enriched with plenty of well-rotted cow manure. 



Hyacinths may be planted from September until winter sets in ; although if the highest success is sought, they 

 should be in the ground by the end of October. 



Bulbs planted early, develop roots in the autumn and these, if protected from injury by freezing and thaw- 

 ing alternately during the winter, enable the bulbs to produce much larger flower spikes than if the roots are not 

 developed till spring. Frost reaching the bulbs raises them up, thus detaching them from their roots. Protection 

 may be afforded by covering the beds with straw, or leaves, to a depth of six or eight inches, which should be 

 removed early in spring. 



Hyacinths should be set about six inches below the surface of the ground and about six inches apart. 



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