FOREST AND STREAM. 
291 
rapid trot, at times galloping. One is startled at first, but 
on contemplating tbe coolness of the driver, and the in¬ 
stinct of the horses, these fears vanish, and you settle your¬ 
self down calmly to enjoy the beautiful sunset in the grand 
old Pacific just ahead. No one can describe a sunset with 
any satisfaction to oneself or the party who is so unfortu¬ 
nate as to have to read it, then why should I endeavor to 
do so? The sunset, as viewed from the Santa Cruz moun¬ 
tains, are gorgeously magnificent, as all will testify who 
have been fortunate enough to witness one. 
Santa Cruz is reached in time for a good dinner. You 
will find theie good sea fishing, good bathing, good hotels, 
good society, a prosperous little city, a lovely climate, 
charming scenery, and a splendid steamer to take you back 
to ’Frisco if you choose to go by sea. All who visit Cali¬ 
fornia I would advise to take this trip. 
Buena Ventura, 
For Forest and Stream. 
THE BAIE DES CHALEURS. 
\j( A CRUISE AFTER SALMON. 
L ET me tell you about a summer trip to the Provinces 
that a small party of us took last year. 
First, you must know that we are old hands at trouting, 
and that the secrets of the Adirondacks and of the Maine 
woods, of the noisy mountain brooks of New Hampshire, 
and the placid streams of Cape Cod, are known to us; that 
in pursuit of our speckled game we have explored every 
State in New England, as well as New York State, that we 
had fished the streams on the northern side of the St. Law¬ 
rence to a distance of a hundred miles below the Saguenay, 
and the rivers of Nova Scotia far to the eastward of Hali¬ 
fax; and one of our last year’s party is now trying to sus¬ 
tain his reputation as a fisherman in the far off State of 
California. This time, however, we were in pursuit of 
nobler game—nothing less than the lordly salmon. 
Without an idea of where we should bring up, we took 
one of the steamers of the International Line at 8 A. M. on 
a broiling day in early July, for St. John; and all day long 
we sailed, now past the rocky shores of Cape Ann, with its 
wooded bays, now by the long low beaches of New Hamp¬ 
shire and Maine, till we reached Portland in the middle of 
the afternoon. Here we landed for an hour or two and 
walked along its shaded streets; then re embarking we sped 
along, enjoying the moonlight till bed time and sleeping 
quietly through the night; next morning we were at East- 
port, the farthest point east over which float the Stars and 
Stripes; thence on to St. John, where we arrived at about 
5 P. M. We set. to work at once ouying our stores and 
making inquiries regarding the fishing. There are some 
very pleasant excursions to be made from St. John, but 
during the whole of the two days passed in the city we 
were shut up in a dense fog, and we could not wait for it 
to lift. So, we took cars for Shediac, (110 miles distant,) 
and there taking one of the “Gulf Port” steamers we sailed 
along the coast of New Brunswick, touching at different 
ports, until we came to Chatham, a small place on the river 
Miramichi. Our point of destination was Bathurst, and 
we might have reached it by steamer “Rothesay Castle” 
had we been able to make connections, but an attempt to 
do that would have involved a delay of a day or two, and 
time was valuable to us; moreover, we proposed, when our 
fishing was over, to go to Quebec, and for these two reasons 
we bought tickets through from St. John to Quebec, a dis¬ 
tance, by cars and boat, of about a thousand miles. The 
price of these was $16 each, (gold,) which paid for our pas¬ 
sage, meals and staterooms included. 
Arrived at Chatham, after one night’s sail, we took 
breakfast and started at once in the mail stage for a fifty 
mile ride to Bathurst; the road was good and lined with 
trees, and the ride was a very pleasant one. At noon we 
reached the half-way house on the Tabusintac River. Here 
is the place for anybody who is not too impatient to get to 
his salmon river to stop and take a trip down river to try 
the sea trout. The owner of the house has a large “dug- 
out,” into which lie will put the party and their luggage; 
he will then harness to it a pair of horses (!) and away he 
will go down stream; where the river is shallow the horses 
will trot and drag the canoe over the bottom of the river, 
whether that be of sand or of rock; where it is deep they 
will swim; and so, at one moment gliding smoothly, at 
another thumping and bumping over the stones, the fisher¬ 
man at last will reach his camping ground. Two days time 
is required for this trip, but let the fisherman make it three; 
he will thus get the evening fishing of one day, the whole 
of the next and the morning fishing of the third, returning 
that afternoon to the half-way house m season to go to 
Bathurst. If he shall do this, my word for it he shall get 
such fishing as he never had before. Every cast will take, 
a trout, and i flie uses three flies he may time and again 
have a fish on ail at once, and every fish shall weigh at 
least a pound, and may weigh four. This is no fiction; the 
truth of it is attested by several who have been there and 
that it can be so, I know from personal experience on the 
St. Lawrence, where I have often had three large sea trout 
to fight at once. Let not the angler forget, either here or 
elsewhere in New Brunswick, his veil and his gloves with 
gauntlet sleeves, or his bottle of tar and oil, (equal parts of 
each,) which is ahead of any other preparation as a culexi- 
fu'je. With these, he may enjoy the sport that I have des¬ 
cribed; without them, his life will be miserable, indeed, for 
New Brunswick flies and mosquitoes have no superiors in 
the art of torturing poor mortals. 
Leaving the half-way house we reached Bathurst towards 
evening and put up at the comfortable house of Mrs. Smith, 
the favorite resort of all anglers. Bathurst is situated on 
the Bay of Chaleurs, at the mouth of the River Nipisiguit, 
and is the place at which guides are taken and the last pre¬ 
parations made before going into the woods. We brought 
supplies sufficient to last our party of four the three weeks 
that we proposed camping out, and at noon of the day after 
<>ur arrival in Bathurst we started with a two-horse wagon 
to drive fifteen miles through the woods to the pools at 
“Middle Landing” which we had previously engaged, our 
guides having gone before with their canoe. And now 
how can I better describe to you our camp and our sport 
than bv giving you an extract from a letter written by me 
to a Boston paper, whilst the perfume uf the hemlock 
houghs lingered around me and the hum of the reel, re- 
spousive to the dash of the first salmon, still vibrated in my 
car. So here it is:— 
“A high bluff, covered with pines and firs, looking down 
u pon a foam-flecked stream; on the edge of the bluff, two 
tents with blazing fires before, and fragrant beds of hem¬ 
lock within. Behind the tents, the bark ‘shanty’ of our 
guides; between them, a rustic table with benches; on one 
side, a hammock swinging between two trees; on the other, 
a long skeleton table, or-rack, on which lie salmon and 
trout rods with the reels carefully protected from sun and 
rain by birch-bark coverings; at the foot of the bluff a birch 
canoe. Such is our camp on the banks of the beautiful 
Nipisiguit, the ‘Foaming Waters*’ 
And from our slumbers in one of those tents the voice of 
our ‘gaffer’ and guide arouses us at four o’clock in the 
morning, and summons us from dreams of salmon to the 
reality of taking one. ‘Now for that salmon !’ and we 
stumble out of our tent, rather stiff from yesterday’s hard 
work, rubbing our eyes, and a little inclined to grumble at 
such early rising; but ‘it is the early bird that catches the 
worm,’ and it is the early fisherman, usually, who catches 
the fish; so we soon cheer up and follow John as he strides 
along, with our rod in one hand and gaff in the other, to 
the favorite pool. A few casts, not very confidently made 
(for we are new at the work,) a swirl on the surface, made 
by the tail of the fish, as he turns to go down with the fly, 
a turn of the wrist to fix the hook, and a salmon is hooked ! 
Away he goes, with a rush, down stream, and the reel 
hums as the line flies out. Then he turns, and comes 
towards us, and quick work it is to take in the line faster 
than he swims, so that he may get no ‘slack.’ Foiled at 
that, up he goes into the air, once, twice, three times, in 
quick succession, and each time the tip of the rod is low¬ 
ered as he comes out, and raised as he falls again into the 
water. Then he goes to the bottom, and sulks under a 
rock. Stones thrown in just above where his nose ought 
to be fail to stir him, for he is under a ledge. Ten minutes 
we hold a tight line, and he doesn’t move. Then says our 
gaffer, ‘He has carried your line among the rocks, and has 
got away. You are fast on bottom. 7 ‘Guess not,’ say we. 
‘Wade in there as far as you can, and start him up.’ Then 
John wades slowly and cautiously in. No move from the 
fish. - On he goes, until the water reaches his armpits, and 
he raises the gaff to at tempt to disengage the line. Whirr I 
goes the reel, and away goes our salmon with a hundred 
and fifty feet of line after him, and away we go on the run 
down stream, over rocks and through water, up the bank 
and down again, determined to give him no more line than 
we can help. The perspiration pours from our face, and 
we tremble with the excitement and the unwonted exertion; 
we begin to doubt whether we can hold out much longer, 
when our fish brings us to the top of a high cliff, beyond 
which it is impossible to follow him. It is now ‘kill or 
break;” the fish must come to the gaff or the line must part. 
Bui by this time the salmon begins to tire and yields more 
readily as the reel calls him in. Now is the time to have 
spectators for the sport; our loud shout calls the sleepers 
■ from their couches and they issue from their tents in every 
state of undress and sit upon the bank to see the fish killed. 
The tale is now soon told; a few more short runs, a last 
leap in the air, and he is brought slowly towards us. Our 
gaffer scrambles down to the foot of the cliff and holds his 
gaff ready; as the fish comes near he makes a dart at him 
and misses, and away goes the fish for another turn around 
the pool; but again he is checked and brought steadily up; 
John plunges his gaff and his arm as far as the shoulder 
into the water and holds up our first salmon ! 
‘Here, John, take the rod. We’ll go to breakfast.’ And 
we return to camp at the head of a procession made up of 
admiring friends, the two gaffers and our cook. The fish 
is weighed; he kicks the beam at eleven and a half pounds 
—not a great weight, to be sure, but he was a very game 
fish, and fought us for nearly an hour, and, moreover, he 
was ‘our first.’ Having been told the day before that the 
salmon were taking small flies, we had tried that morning 
with a trout fly. ‘See, John, how small a hook I took him 
with.’ ‘Yes,’ says John, ‘them small, little hooks is—is 
great !’ We put that fly carefully away in our pocket- 
book, and have no objection to showing it.” 
After a three-weeks sojourn on the banks of this beauti¬ 
ful stream, during which we paid visits in our “birch” to 
the camps of brother anglers, and made a delightful trip to 
the Grand Falls of the Nipisiguit, where we saw the bottom 
black with salmon , we sent our traps out by wagon, and 
dropping down stream in the canoe, returned to Bathurst 
and to civilization. 
The next night we took the “Rothesay Castle,” and sail¬ 
ing further up the Bay of Chaleurs, into the Restigouche 
River, (the “river that speads out like the hand,”) touched 
at Dalhousie and stopped, a little higher up, at Campbellton. 
Here we took a wagon and drove to* Metapedia, where we 
put up at Frazar’s comfortable house and spent a few days 
fishing for sea trout in the Metapedia and the rivers flow¬ 
ing into it. We met there a party of gentlemen wlio had 
just finished their season’s salmon fishing in the Restigouche 
and were returning to their homes. The novel manner in 
which they had lived is worth mentioning. They had a 
large barge, upon which had been built a comfortable 
cabin, supplied with berths, tables, &c.; the windows and 
doors were covered with mosquito nets, effectually exclud¬ 
ing the mosquitoes, which, in a calm day or evening, found 
their way even out into the middle of the stream, where 
the barge was moved. Abaft was the kitchen, so far re¬ 
moved from the cabin that the heat and smoke of the fires 
could not annoy the gentlemen. The motive power for 
this floating camp was the same as that used at the Tabus¬ 
intac—namely, a pair of horses. By these the barge was 
dragged to that part of the stream where it was proposed 
to fish, and there it was moored fast and the fishermen 
threw their flies from its deck or each with his canoe and 
men sought a separate pool. 
An amusing story was told me regarding a member of 
this party, which will bear repeating. This gentleman was 
invited to a late dinner with friends inn neighboring camp. 
The hour of dinner arrived, but not so our friend. A late 
comer reported that the delinquent had been last seen on 
the top of the barge cabin, playing a large salmon, and 
that he would probably put in an appearance before long. 
Everything has to give place to a salmon that shows fight. 
You have all heard of the Scotchman whose servant came 
running down to the stream where he was busy with a 
large fish, with the news that “the mistress was a dee-in’ ” 
and of liis reply, “Tell her to hold on ’till I have landed 
this salmon !” So dinner was postponed and still our 
angler came not. At last daylight gave out and so did the 
patience of the dinner party. A messenger was sent after 
the missing man. He found him. Where? Still on the 
top of the barge caflio, surrounded by lighted candles, with 
his wife standing bravely by his side and waving about her 
husband’s head her flannel petticoat to keep off the mosqui¬ 
toes, whilst he continued to fight that same identical 
salmon ! It is due to the perseverance of the gentleman 
and the heroism of the lady to say that they landed him ! ! 
From Metapedia, we drove back to Campbellton, and no 
wishing to wait for the steamer, took a sail boat back to 
Dalhousie. This is a pleasant little village, surrounded by 
beautiful scenery and having plenty of good trout fishing 
within easy reach. That night we again' took passage on 
one of the “GulfPort Steamers,” and sailing out of the 
Restigouche and coasting along that part of Lower Canada 
which lies between the Restigouche and the St. Lawrence, 
stopping at New Carlisle, Perce, (where is the famous 
Perce Rock,) and Gaspe, entered the River St. Lawrence; 
and after a delightful sail of two days and two nights from 
Dalhousie, during which we were content to lie about the 
vessel and rest after our labors, we reached Q,uebec and our 
fishing trip was over. W. E. F. 
Boston, June 14, 1874. 
JPff? Mforsi! mjd fin? $otn[8 f 
Jerome Park Races.— On Saturday last the largest 
number of people ever brought together at Jerome Park 
were assembled. The grand event of the day was the race 
for the Belmont stakes. Distance, a mile and a half. 
Entries, nine. 
First Race, Belmont stakes for tlwee year olds —Won by 
Saxon, by a neck ; Grimstead second, Pennington third. 
Time, 2.394. 
Second Race, for two year olds, a dash of half a mile. 
Won by Mecca, by a head, Lizzie R. second, Amelia 
third. Time, 504 seconds. 
Third Race. —Dash of mile and a half. WonbyBinga- 
man, Merodac second, Red Duck third. Time, 2.404- 
Fourth Race —Mile heats. Won by Katy, a good length 
ahead, in 1.44; Jury second. 
Fifth Race. —Steeplechase, an extra event, the winner to 
receive a silver plate presented by Miss J. G. Bennett, G. 
P. Wetmore, and Leonard Jerome. Distance 24 miles. 
Won by George West, wonderfully well ridden by Gaffney, 
in 5 86, distancing his competitors Bullet, Mary Clark, and 
Henrietta. 
On Tuesday the Park was again crowded with specta¬ 
tors, and there were four spirited contests, of which the 
following is a summary:— 
First Race —Ladies’ stake—One mile and a half. Five 
entries; won by Cottrill’s Bonaventure in 2.42; Lava sec¬ 
ond. 
Second Race —Dash of a mile and a quarter; nine entries; 
won by Sanford’s Preakness in 2.12; Cordelia second; Res¬ 
olute third. 
Third Race —Mile and three quarters; five entries; won 
by McDaniel’s Springbox in 3.144; Mate second; Fellow- 
craft third. 
Fourth Race—Handicap Hurdle Race —Mile and three 
quarters, over seven hurdles; three entries; won by Hitch¬ 
cock’s Livingstone in 3.26; Victor second. 
—On Monday last the new half mile track of the “West 
Side Park” was opened at the foot of Duncan Avenue, in 
Jersey City. First race was for horses that had never 
beaten 3.20. There were twelve entries, mile heats, best 
three in five, under harness ; won by Mace’s Midget. A 
second race for horses which had never made 2.38, was next 
in order, which was won by P. Manees’ Phil O’Neil, in 
2.424, 2.40f, and 2.434. 
—At Philadelphia, on the 15th of June, at Suffolk Park, 
a race came off between Goldsmith Maid and Nettie. Mile 
heats, best three in five. Won by Goldsmith Maid. Best 
time of the maid, 2.23. 
—The black stallion Strideaway, the famous trotter 4 
owned by Keeler, Wright, and Shumway, and valued at 
$25,000, died of disease at a stable in Providence, on 
Monday. 
—Last week at the Richmond club grounds, New Dorp, 
Staten*Island, an exciting race took place. Three horses 
entered, best three in five to harness; £ mile heats. Uncle 
Bill, 112 2 1; Lady Woods, 2 2 113; New Burling 
Girl, 3 8 3 3 2. Time—2 min., 1.594, 1*50, 1 57, 1.59. 
—At Boston, on June 13th, a race took place over the 
Beacon Park, between American Girl and Copperbottom, 
a pacer, both in harness, and Lucilla Golddust under 
saddle, for $2,000. Mile heats, best three in five. Lucilla 
won the first heat in 2.27, American Girl the second in 
2.254, and she won the third and fourth heats in 2.274 and 
2.26. 
—In Paris, France, on the 14tli, the Grand Prix de Paris 
was won by the English Colt, Trent, fourteen horses 
running. 
—We are indebted to Major George J. Allen, U. S. 
Signal Officer a t New Smyrna, Florida, for meteorogieal 
record for May—latitude 29 deg. 02 min., longitude 80 deg. 
54 min—from which we learn that the lowest temperature 
for the month was 62 deg., highest 94 deg., mean mid¬ 
day temperature 88 deg. Amount of rainfall about four 
inches. 
—A quaint old fisherman along toward dusk, was fishing 
in a trout stream, and as he flung his fly over the water, it 
was suddenly snapped b}^ a large bat. The strange-looking 
thing dangled and flapped its wings at the end of the line. 
The fisherman’s companion called out: Say, Sam, got any¬ 
thing?” “Ye as,” looking at the bat on his hook. “What 
is it?” “I dunno, unless its a cherubim !” 
-< 4 *>- 
—We clip the following item from an exchange :— 
A lot of rats were found the other day in a hogshead 
that had been left open in a store in Exeter, N. FI. The 
store cat, having been notified, climbed to the edge of the 
hogshead, but, after surveying the situation, jumped down 
and ran out at the door, shortly reappearing with, another 
cat. The two looked at their foes and retired, soon com¬ 
ing back with a third cat. They now seemed satisfied 
with their force and made an attack, jumping into the 
hogshead. The cats miscalculated the force of their 
enemy, two were killed, one being taken out in season to 
save its life. 
